Should anything be removed?

In my other posts I've stated that I'm new to bonsai, but I'm pretty new to growing trees in general. I've always grown plants, and been pretty successful when it comes to gardening, but trees are different it seems. I'm not really sure what to do with them. Anyway, I've posted about this tree more than once, and again I could use a little bit of advice. It might be my impatience that is causing me to view the tree this way, which is why I am asking.

As you can see from this picture, it has been growing quite a bit. The only thing I'm concerned about, is that there are dozens of shoots which are crowded closely together.


Here is an up close picture of some of the shoots.


I've read that this kind of situation can cause the shaded branches to die, because they don't receive enough sun. Also, I'm not sure if having so many shoots growing at the same time slow down the process of growth and thicken. At the moment, it doesn't seem like it, but I don't have much experience. Basically, what I'm asking is will it be better to simply allow all of these shoots to grow on their own, or remove some of them?

What specie is this tree? Did you check to see how much of the base has a live cambien ? Just from what I can see is you have to thin out some of the sprouts that are connected. If this is the future apex all of the shoots in one area will cause a unpleasant taper and branch placement.

One more question is how long has it been collected?

Mitch

Could be a hophornbeam.

And you need to choose one of those clumped up sprouts. Otherwise a huge lump will develop on the trunk. One branch coming from a single spot is sufficient. Later, once you can see the structure of the tree, you may even remove some of those remaining branches.

Look at your tree as if you were looking at a generic tree out in a field somewhere. Those big trees don't have 6 branches growing off a single spot. Try to imagine the silhouette of the leafless tree. Hophornbeam would have a rounder, umbrella shape. Some elms have a vase-like shape. Oaks may have a wide, spreading umbrella shape.

You have a single trunk - then, main branches (3-4 perhaps) - then sub branches off each main branch, and later further subdivision into smaller and smaller branches off the sub branches.

Mitch Thomas wrote:What specie is this tree? Did you check to see how much of the base has a live cambien ? Just from what I can see is you have to thin out some of the sprouts that are connected. If this is the future apex all of the shoots in one area will cause a unpleasant taper and branch placement.

One more question is how long has it been collected?

Mitch

These tree is the Florida variant of the American Elm and it was collected about 2 months ago. The shoots in the close up pic are actually of one of about 10 or so different nodes, located all over the tree. The apex will likely be the shoot in the upper right hand corner of the picture. It already has some decent side branches, and is the thickest of any of the shoots.(thick as a pencil.)

And Jim, thanks for the advice. This is the elm I posted in my first thread, but it has had a serious growth spurt.

So, last night I brought the number of shoots down to something that would be much more manageable. I think it opened up the tree a lot, and the current branches will now be able to develop better, without being shaded by a big mess of crowded leaves. Here's what it looks like now.


I have one question now. Before these harder of, should I wire them into a position that I am generally happy with? Or, should I left the tree grow until winter-thus fattening the branches up a bit-then cut then back to create taper?

You can do some lite wireing now and then I would let it go until fall leaf drop then wire every thing. I would also keep the succor growth in check.

Mitch

Mitch Thomas wrote:You can do some lite wireing now and then I would let it go until fall leaf drop then wire every thing. I would also keep the succor growth in check.

Mitch

Thanks for the advice. I was debating whether the suckers should be removed, or if I should try work them into the place of a lower branch.

No your better off with single branches. When you start removing the suckers it may cause new dormant buds in more advantageous areas to sprout, if they do keep them if not rub them off.

Mitch