My Green Maple

Here is my Green Maple I collected a few years ago. It has been a practice tree for learning maple behaviors, so that I may make fewer mistakes with soon to be acquired Japanese maples. I know the leaves wont reduce much, nor will I be able to create perfect ramification due to the species. I'm just looking fro some thoughts from you guys and gals. Thanks!

-Joe

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What do you have there- Norway maple, or Sugar Maple? If you break off a leaf and the sap is white- Norway, if not the other- I don't know if either is better than the other for bonsai, but a sugar maple is native and that is always a plus, and you can make little tiny bottles of maple syrup out of it. Try this stuff on it: http://www.bonsai4me.com/SpeciesGuide/AcerPalmatumAdvancedGuide.htm
also a little inspiration:

I wanna say sugar maple. That link was helpful. I wish I pinched out the shoots this spring it would have made a difference. I was a bit worried about this year. The pot had cracked this winter due to poor drainage. I was hoping the roots didn't get frost damaged. It seems healthy. Where did you get the pic from? And THANKS!

Joe's tree will never get anywhere until it gives up smoking!

Do Norway Maples suffer from tar spot across the pond in the same way as they can do over here in the UK? Although nothing like as bad as its relative the sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus), the couple of decently shaped Norway Maple bonsai I've seen over in Scotland were reduced to looking average because of it. They seem to recover the next year though.

The way the roots spread is interesting. As you said, leaves can't be reduced that much on that species, but if you put it in a larger (not deeper) pot, and let it grow for a couple of years, you could take advantage of a potentially interesting base maybe.

You can get the leaves smaller by defoliating. When you do that year after year, they leaf out small. I too have enjoyed working with the maple, elm, and river birch seedlings that grow in my flower gardens. I'm putting together a 'mixed' forest eventully. It is good practice, but don't assume they can't be a decent bonsai.

I have been defoliating once a year in late summer for the last few years. It has improved greatly since last year. It has reduced slightly since then.

I also thought of using it for a base graft.

I think I'll end up putting it back in the ground to thicken up the base more,at some point.

I had collected it with a dear friend and my 5 year old has laid claim to it for when he gets older. Because of these facts the tree is already, a world class tree for me:)

Thanks everyone!

Joe Hatfield wrote:
I had collected it with a dear friend and my 5 year old has laid claim to it for when he gets older. Because of these facts the tree is already, a world class tree for me:)

Oh, then, let it grow, let it grow

Defoliate it earlier in the year: after the leaves have completely leafed out. You will get another flush of leaves that are smaller. Of course, defoliation shouldn't be done if you are still developing branching and/or thickening a trunk. Harry Harrington explains the process well at http://www.bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATdefoliating.htm

White sap!!! I retract my previous statement. It a Norway.


I have read that defoliation document in the past. Thank you for referencing it. I forgot that publication was out there. It is extremely helpful.

I have read in other documents that stated not to defoliate a Acer until August. It was said that May June and July was too early but, It did not mention branch development nor the location in which he/she was growing their bonsai.


!!!!! I'm excited!! I get my first Yamamomiji today. !!!!!

fionnghal wrote:Joe's tree will never get anywhere until it gives up smoking!

Not true! It is well known that smoking will stunt your growth.

"Not true! It is well known that smoking will stunt your growth. Rolling Eyes"


Nice spin on that! 300 point bonus!

Not true! It is well known that smoking will stunt your growth.

Or stop it entirely.