Inducing back budding in JBP by severe chopping
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Inducing back budding in JBP by severe chopping
Hi,
I am gross growing a JBP in the ground and it is ready to be pruned back to induce taper. I am hoping at the same time to induce back budding (if possible on the trunk) and was wondering what the right time for this objective would be? At present the tree is in full growth, the needles are ready to extend and candles are 6 inches plus near the apex.
Thanks for your help.
I am gross growing a JBP in the ground and it is ready to be pruned back to induce taper. I am hoping at the same time to induce back budding (if possible on the trunk) and was wondering what the right time for this objective would be? At present the tree is in full growth, the needles are ready to extend and candles are 6 inches plus near the apex.
Thanks for your help.
marie1uk- Member
JBP
In all questions like this, location is important.
JBP don't normally produce buds on the mature trunk.
JBP don't normally produce buds on the mature trunk.
Billy M. Rhodes- Member
Re: Inducing back budding in JBP by severe chopping
I'm in the UK. It's now late spring...
marie1uk- Member
JBP Back Budding
I think I would look for a UK grower to answer, but my feeling is NO.
Billy M. Rhodes- Member
Re: Inducing back budding in JBP by severe chopping
Probably the only way to get new growth on old wood is grafting. I have tried this but only 50% success rate.
John T
John T
Guest- Guest
Re: Inducing back budding in JBP by severe chopping
John and Billy are quite right. It is very rare for any pines to bud on wood older than two or three years old. Grafting is certainly worth trying. I have used the method covered in Dan Barton's book succesfully in the past. This method can be adapted to an "upside down" graft, where a cut is made upwards into the bark on the trunk and the scion is inserted with the candle pointing downwards.
Kev Bailey- Admin
Re: Inducing back budding in JBP by severe chopping
JBP will only occasionally bud back on old wood and rarely exactly where you want the bud. Severe chopping like you could do to a Bald Cypress or a Maple or Ficus will likely kill the JBP.
If you have good size trunks and want lower branches try grafting. For veneer or oblique grafting the best time is when the new bud (scion) is still dormant and the tree is waking up. This is normally spring but if you have a hot summer you can try in late summer. Approach grafting also works and can be done anytime during the growing season. If you have a long candle available but the needles haven't popped yet you can even try thread grafting. Approach and thread grafting take several years to see if they have successfully taken so the veneer grafting is quicker.
I suggest you get some reference material about grafting, study it and then try it. It is lots of fun and can really turn JPB material into good bonsai specimens.
If you have good size trunks and want lower branches try grafting. For veneer or oblique grafting the best time is when the new bud (scion) is still dormant and the tree is waking up. This is normally spring but if you have a hot summer you can try in late summer. Approach grafting also works and can be done anytime during the growing season. If you have a long candle available but the needles haven't popped yet you can even try thread grafting. Approach and thread grafting take several years to see if they have successfully taken so the veneer grafting is quicker.
I suggest you get some reference material about grafting, study it and then try it. It is lots of fun and can really turn JPB material into good bonsai specimens.
Rob Kempinski- Member
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