This winter

I ran across problems with my wooden bonsai stands and carved daizas. When I talked to folks better educated
I was told that in both cases the wood had dried out and on my stands the corners parted and with daizas the
stand could not be separated from the rock.

Looking for comment from those wood working types who might have some comments on what to do. Moisture, method of storage etc. appreciate your comments

I did find out from another chatline, that part of the display table problems with separating corners was due in part to the way they were constructed. The outside frame and inside board were attached as one piece. As the wood expanded it separated in the corners. The maker of the tables has redone them to have the center piece
not affixed to the outside frame allowing for expansion and enough room to allow it to happen.

I'm still hopeful to get some feedback on the daizas which are usually made from one piece of wood.

Hi dick

We also have a dry winter inside my house, and one day I notised the stones fitted the daizas more than I liked......I took a 2 liter iron pot, and filled it with water, and placed it on the fireplace...(in danish "kakkelovn"), it gives damp air enough, the daizas was not stuck after 3 weeks. Nothing has gone wrong, and I will do this again in the years to come....I also feel a bit better, my skin is not as dry any more.

Kind regards Yvonne

WOW! what great input. Thanks.

Hi Dick... Glad you recognized the need to float panels for the tops of stands/_shoku_ inside their frames. It is common to see the delicate panels stuck which usually forces a split along the grain of the wide, relatively thin, center panel. In better crafted stands, the panels will also be chamfered on their underside (similar to the fielded panels in colonial-style doors) to help reduce checking/splitting along the board's end-grain.

To reduce warping or twisting of wooden seats for viewing stones, consider:
- choosing woods that are less prone to warping (e.g., oily woods, woods with locking grains & wood lumber dried to ~ the same humidity as where the wood seat will be stored & displayed),
- choosing a good sealant (not just a stain or dye) for the finish,
- completely cover the daiza with sealant/finish on its interior & underside as well on its exposed circumference,
- arrange the board for crafting the daiza so that its longest section will run with-the-grain-- its shortest section should run across-the-grain of the wood,
- keep it stored outside (higher humidity) or inside (less humidity varying with your heating/cooling system) but not switching from one to another,
- moderate humidity with box storage-- especially box storage for individual stones and their seats, and
- plan in construction of the wood-seat that the socket will warp away from the socket-side & toward the footed-side of a board from which it will be carved.

More useful suggestions will hopefully follow from others.

Chris, thank-you, appreciate the input

Hi Chris

Thanks for your input.
On your advise did I use wax on the inside of the daizas too, it was a a good advise.

Shoewax give a nice soft sheen on the daiza ....I use it to all my daizas...and have always done

also on the displayarea on old japanese tables, as drops of water will not bite in, but can be reomved without any problems.

"choosing a good sealant (not just a stain or dye) for the finish,"... this remark from you, do I not think any carved understand, as noone use only a dye as the finish.

Kind regards Yvonne

Hi friends.
I apply an oil from ,,Linum usitatissimum,, This oil penetrate into a wood that become almost water resist,
ofcourse the wood must be totaly dry befor making a daiza . Harder wood is better than soft.
My daizas then are not damaged by moisture ....

Nice day to all
vlado

Hi Vlado

Thanks for the advise, I will think about it, and try.

Kind regards Yvonne