Olive Root Cutting

Here is an olive root cutting done on April 14th 2012



It was put in a black bag since - opened daily a few minutes



On the 6th of May I had the first bud


Today May 25th
The blue zone has a kind of callus don't know what it is, the red buds turned black


It is still under the black bag, should I switch to transparent ?

thanks

Not sure why you are using black bag but it will block all light and can get too hot. Stop using it.

Thanks Poink for your input,

I am using a black bag because this is what I have been tough to use when you want root growth, so this is what I use on big cuttings.

when you say stop using it you mean replace it by a transparent one or no bags at all ?

I will use clear plastic so the leaves can receive sunlight and work. The bag is used to trap moisture and keep humidity high. This will save the precious little water your plant have until it has a robust root system. The down side is it can create an ideal environment for fungus as well so watch out for those. The black bag traps more heat which is good for roots (up to some degree...too much is also bad).

akhater wrote: ... ... It is still under the black bag, should I switch to transparent ?

Hello!
I have used black plastic bags for collected trees.
When new buds emerge you should shift to transparent and put the pot in a shaded place where it can receive lots of light but not direct sunlight.
Then you should remove gradually the transparent bag within a few days, taking into consideration the temperature.
But at the part of world you live I believe it will be safe for you to remove the black bag and don't use a transparent one. Just put the pot into a e.g. garage for a few days. Then you can gradually move the pot outside.

Perhaps, some fungicide should also be used... I am not an expert, so don't take my word about this...

thank you for your input both of you,

I have moved to transparent and it is in a shady spot. I don't dare remove the bag right now I think the difference in humidity will kill it. So i will start adding some wholes to the 'greenhouse' gradually till it is in open air in a week or so

One question...since you said this is a root cutting...are you sure this is not planted upside down?

you nailed it it is upside - down for obvious taper reasons

akhater wrote:you nailed it it is upside - down for obvious taper reasons

Not to dampen things but that might be what's causing your problem. I planted a few things upside down before (vine and bamboo) and they took ...not sure if Olive will work though.

Read about fluid flow for xylem and phloem. Xylem (soft wood) is one way and only flow "upward". In this case downward so the roots cannot send anything upward. What is sustaining your plant now is the stored energy and possibly the Phloem (just under the bark) which allows up and down flow.

Not sure if the flow for xylem will reverse over time.

time will tell

Poink88 wrote:... ...I planted a few things upside down before (vine and bamboo) and they took ...not sure if Olive will work though... ...

Well, I have planted a ficus carica cutting (not root cutting) upside down last February and it has taken and is growing a new branch with 2-3 leaves now.
My guess is that this root cutting with some special care will give new shoots, too.

Hi akhater,

I would recommend you to use some IBA in your next attempt. It accelerates root formation/development in such cases.

Taner

hi guys,

it seems that the procedure being used is not clear...so I will try to explain...

when using the black bag - 2 things will happen :
1. roots will start growing - they like a humid and dark env ( BTW in some cases roots will start forming from the trunk itself )
2. buds will start emerging - this is what we are looking for !!! and they are forming in the black bag because the tree is striving for light so it will push a lot of buds !!!

after we have buds & leaves we switch to the second stage - a clear bag
now the leafs that were formed on stage 1 will push the roots ( and the clear bag will allow them to get light & keeps the moisture ) - in this stage we must NOT let the tree be in direct sun light - because the temperture inside the bag will rise dramaticlly and will "cook" the leafs & the roots.

regarding the upside down - it is more difficult for the tree, but I beleive that evantually it will be OK

akhater - good luck ! and please keep updating on the process

alon

thank you for the input I've learned some stuff. So we all agree it is time to switch to transparent bag right ?

It needs light, so definitely transparent bag and then slowly let air in.

Hi Akhater

Any update?

Kind regards Yvonne

The black bag is really a must?

It contributes greatly..., therefore you could say it must be used.

my nellie wrote:It contributes greatly..., therefore you could say it must be used.

I still cannot see a reason for it. Bagging I can understand for humidity but black? You need light for the leaves to function. If you argue the darkness helps sprouting...HOW? There are no leaves to begin with.

Again, I may be missing something but as of now...I don't think it is any better than clear and I actually think it is bad since you cannot monitor inside and if growth comes without removing it, you will have dead leaves.

If the argument is for heat retention for the roots I can see that but then, you have to make it clear since some areas (like TX), we have more heat that the ideal temp for roots to begin with.

hi Dario,

the dark bag helps because when the tree has no light it sprouts stronger

BUT

it is used during the winter time !!! ( the tree is cut in November, put in black bag until February and then from February to April with a clear bag )
if we would of use it in the summer the temperature inside is to high

theBalance wrote:the dark bag helps because when the tree has no light it sprouts stronger

EDIT IN: I hope this reasoning didn't come from seed germination (like bean sprouts) because it is totally different from cuttings or collected trees.

I am still not convinced about this. Even if it is true, leaves sprouted in the dark are usually "weaker"/more tender. They are more likely to burn later if exposed to sunlight too.

Choose your poison I guess but for me, I want the leaves to see light ASAP.

My olive is actually doing great although the growth are not exactly where I would like them to be

Do you think I should repot it this year or give it one more season to grow stronger?

thanks

Glad to hear that!
I'd say leave it alone. Let it grow free. Do not disturb it!

Thank you my nellie for the reply, there are a lot of shots at the base and the few on top are rather weak.

Should I cut the suckers ?

Would be helpful to post some photos.
I am a beginner, reading, testing and gathering information/knowledge. So take my words for what they are worth...
The more green you have the more root growth is going on under the soil.
I'd say you can remove the suckers anytime later, so let them be and hopefully you will get more new shoots on the main trunk.
But wait for more advanced suggestions.