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Actino-iron or Actinovate

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Post  timahlen Wed Mar 18, 2015 12:04 am

I just had someone recommend this product for use as an effective fungicide on ulmus parvifolia. Can anybody confirm that recommendation?
The online documentation I have found suggests that it works much like mycorrhizae. If this is the case, does it attack other mycorrhizal organisms?

Tim Ahlen
Dallas, TX
Zone 8

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Post  JimLewis Wed Mar 18, 2015 12:48 pm

I'm confused. You are looking for a fungicide, then you say this fungicide "works much like mycorrhizae" which IS a fungus. Seems hard to be both a fungus killer and a fungus at the same time.

I looked at the data sheets. There seem to be several Actinovate products. Oddly each, tho sold for different applications, has exactly the same formula.

I'd assume they won't hurt your trees if you follow application requirements on the label. The issue, as always, is extrapolating the "field" requirements to bonsai in pots. I'd err on the less-is-best side.

And, I'm always a bit doubtful as to the efficacy of "preventive" applications of a pesticide.
JimLewis
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Post  timahlen Thu Mar 19, 2015 4:54 am

Jim,

It is comforting  when someone of your stature is as confused as I am. ;-)

What I am looking for is a fungicide that is effective at controlling black spot and related fungal diseases on my elms, while not causing them to defoliate.  This product was recommended, but when I looked at the literature, it appears to be a bacterium with  fungicidal properties, colonizes around the root tips and functions in a way similar to mycorrhizae.  I was just trying to find out if anyone had experience with it. And I want to make sure, being an anti-fungal agent, that it doesn't destroy the mycorrhizal colonies existing in my pots.

Tim

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Post  JimLewis Thu Mar 19, 2015 1:35 pm

I'm not sure that black spot would be controlled by a systemic; nor am I certain any fungicide is approved for this disease on Chinese elms. Clemson University seems to feel that for nursery elms, prevention is best and, since it is spread by splattering water drops, that not wetting the foliage is the best bet. An excerpt follows:

"Management: Blackspot is usually of minor concern for Chinese elms in nurseries
and landscapes. However, the disease can be more severe during cooler, wet springs or in
nurseries where trees are irrigated overhead. The fungal spores are water-splashed to new
growth from infected leaves until about mid-summer. Then, disease development usually
slows or ceases. Reducing prolonged periods of leaf wetness by avoiding overhead irriga-
tion can help reduce disease development and spread. Removal of fallen leaf litter within
nurseries can also lessen disease incidence by removing overwintering sites for the patho-
gen. There are no fungicides currently labeled to control blackspot of elm. If fungicides
are used, application must begin prior to bud break and continue through leaf extension." ---
https://www.clemson.edu/extension/horticulture/nursery/ipm/book_files/chapter_8

Also see:
http://elmcare.com/disease/elm_leaf_black_spot.htm
http://entoweb.okstate.edu/ddd/diseases/elmblackspot.htm

JimLewis
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Post  f1pt4 Tue Mar 24, 2015 2:16 am

This might or might not pertain to your situation, but I guess it won't hurt to chime in. I posted last year somewhere here that I had issues with my Bilobed Grewia. Leaves were being chewed up by unidentified monsters and black spots were appearing. Then the leaves dropped and branch die back occurred. I pretty much defoliated the whole tree this winter, assuming the worst, and I treated the soil with Nilnat Tanlin and sprayed the tree with Green Earth Bordo Copper Spray. I don't know if it was the Nilnat Tanlin that saved the tree, or the defoliation or the copper spray or all three, but it has bounced back and is growing quite well considering it's been under grow lights all winter and still hasn't seen the sun. Knock on wood, no leaves are getting chewed on, and not a single black spot.

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Post  timahlen Tue Mar 24, 2015 4:11 pm

Thanks all, for your insight.

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