Not "super large" -Penjing

..Maganda pre,...bravo!! i admire your talent and artistry jun...hopefully i magkaroon din ako ng ganyan....more power!!

Tyok wrote:..Maganda pre,...bravo!! i admire your talent and artistry jun...hopefully i magkaroon din ako ng ganyan....more power!!

Thank you pre! Practice and Hands on works makes some difference.

regards,
jun

Very nice Jun. I'd better not to comment if I suppose to judge in May...

Robert Steven wrote:Very nice Jun. I'd better not to comment if I suppose to judge in May...

Oops! I forgot! Should have waited until May! Don't worry this is just half of the entire composition.

regards,
jun

Hi guys,
been experimenting on several approach to penjing,,,,please don't be hold your selves in your comments. is too much details not good or is it ok to go beyond the normal approach.
I am creating a deep and shallow water effect using chemical that turns solid like glass for a more permanent display.







Area needs about 20 to 30 coatings to submerge the "rocks/bouldres"


Almost done here...after more than 30plus coatings


Some more detailing works at the base of the cliff





couple more coating...







regards,
jun

hi Jun,

Nice work - very natural. I used to make scale scenery for wargaming and there is a great product from woodland scenics that makes waterfalls and swirling water etc - it is very natural when combined with the still water product you are using atm. -you can add ripples, waves, and as i mentioned waterfalls - check their website - it will give you lots of clues my friend

best regards Marcus

Hi Marcus.

thanks! I experimented with several products. Some water affect materials I used were the ones we are using for making scale models of swimming pool and for water/ponds for architectural models. probably the same as the materials used in hobby works. They are very easy to apply , two thick coats/layer will do. and would dry easily. but the problem I found is that almost all of those products are sensitive to water and prolong sun exposure. The chemical I am using now is very though, and industrial grade used for water proofing concrete and porous architectural stones.
I'll still try some other products though.


regards,
jun

Jun I think the effect is spectacular. And the whole planting is awesome!!

Is it Resin? Or a sealant for flooring?

Sam asked about the Sandstone. Sam you can make your own. Its called Hyper tufa. Its the easiest thing in the world, and get overgrown with moss so quickly that in no time you cannot distinguish the faux from the real, its carves beautifully. You can make any shape and mountain. Here is a example of and Indian Hyper tufa purification stone.

Thanks Andre!

it is water proofing sealant for exterior concrete or stones/rocks.
Did you make the pots?
regards,
jun

Good heavens no.. I bought it as a real stone-carved purification stone, from Bali. And then one day I saw fibre sticking out! So I searched around, and walla ... hyper tufa.

This is my first attempt of making a faux Roman drinking trough from Hyper tufa. As you can see, NOT the same quality as the Bali faux. But still looks like stone, I think.




Anyway, back to your landscape.....

'Realistic Water' from Woodland Scenics won't work as it is not made for outdoor use.
I use a 2 part epoxy acrylic (from Home Depot) that works great. i think it's called 'Glaze' or something similar. Dries crystal clear in about 8-12 hrs. and can be colored for ocean scenes.

I will post a pic or 2 of what I've done with it, when I figure out how to post. I just joined this forum today.

Les

Have you read THIS Les? Tells you all you need to know.

marcus watts wrote:hi Jun,

Nice work - very natural. I used to make scale scenery for wargaming and there is a great product from woodland scenics that makes waterfalls and swirling water etc - it is very natural when combined with the still water product you are using atm. -you can add ripples, waves, and as i mentioned waterfalls - check their website - it will give you lots of clues my friend

best regards Marcus

I was commenting on the quote above. I forgot to include the quote.
sorry,

fiona wrote:Have you read THIS Les? Tells you all you need to know.

Thanks, that helps.

Jun,

Have you tried (if it is available in the Philippines) Alumilite casting resins? I used to turn pens and it is widely used as casting material because it is not (or a lot less) toxic/noxious than most similar resin.

http://www.alumilite.com/Category.cfm?Category=Casting%20Resins

Poink88 wrote:Jun,

Have you tried (if it is available in the Philippines) Alumilite casting resins? I used to turn pens and it is widely used as casting material because it is not (or a lot less) toxic/noxious than most similar resin.

http://www.alumilite.com/Category.cfm?Category=Casting%20Resins

I looked it up. The 'clear cast' 2-pt. resin is very similar (maybe the same) as the 2-pt epoxy glaze from Home Depot, except alumilite's is more expensive (16oz./$20).

Les

Thanks Dario and Les.

Are these chemicals used in casting waterproof and "sun exposure" resistant.


regards,
jun

Jun,
It is waterproof. I keep mine outside and the trees get watered everyday. When 'showing' a tree, just tip the tray and the water rolls off leaving a shiny clear appearance as if the water is still there.
As far as sun resistant, I'm not sure how long. I only put my groupings together about 2 months ago. I guess time will tell. I will see if the instructions mention that.

Also, I will post some pics of my trees with epoxy water, as soon as I find the USB cable to the camera.

Les

jun wrote:Are these chemicals used in casting waterproof and "sun exposure" resistant.

Yes on both that is being used on casting pen blanks. Please check which is best since they have multiple offerings. Last I checked (few years back), they are very responsive (email wise) and even ships free samples here in the US. Unlike epoxy, these do not turn yellowish in time either.

Hi IBC Folks!

Sorry to say, my water image effect didn't work on this one because I need to keep on watering the Phempis acidula trees at least 3 times a day and misting the the rocks more than 10 times a day to keep the moss alive, the very hot summer here ruined my plan. I need at least 6 to 8 hours drying time for the chemicals, and the waters keep on ruining it...here it as is to be shown tomorrow. But my elm forest "water effect" was successful. see it in the other thread.

6:00 PM



4:00 PM






1:00 PM



Hey Pavel, I took your advice (thanks Man!)...I used "bamboo" to fill the gap you pointed out earlier, while I am waiting for the cascade to develop.

regards,
jun

Bro,

All i can say... Its really a WOW , a great and splendid creation Idol, another work of art again..

by the way Bro, thanks for the info and update, its only now, i just open this site again since thursday, i really missed that chance..

Ferdie * wrote:Bro,

All i can say... Its really a WOW , a great and splendid creation Idol, another work of art again..

by the way Bro, thanks for the info and update, its only now, i just open this site again since thursday, i really missed that chance..

Thanks a lot, but I would consider it no more than a 'novice' attempt at Penjing. Although I've been doing bonsai for quite a while, I only started trying Penjing this year.
All 3 of those compositions are less than 2 months old.
I'm ordering a book on it, and combing the Internet for penjing pictures and articles, because I have penjing fever now.
I've got a nearly endless supply of limestone rocks from the local creek here in Bainbridge, GA. My problem is that I have very little mame material to work with. I've always grown larger trees and forest plantings, so I don't have the best material for the 'small trees on cliff' yet.

Thus, the immature trees on the mountain scene with the tall rock.

But thank you again for your gracious comments!

Les

Maybe Ferdie could comment on whether he was referring to Jun's work or Les's.

fiona wrote:Maybe Ferdie could comment on whether he was referring to Jun's work or Les's.

I hope Ferdie meant it for Les's work too. I am very happy that more and more people are trying penjing. I just hope hope that some penjing would reflect local images of the artist creating penjing. this is the reason I am trying to avoid using much Chinese figurine and temples/pagodas because it is not ours.

Nice work Les...keep it up!

regards,
jun

jun wrote:

fiona wrote:Maybe Ferdie could comment on whether he was referring to Jun's work or Les's.

I hope Ferdie meant it for Les's work too. I am very happy that more and more people are trying penjing. I just hope hope that some penjing would reflect local images of the artist creating penjing. this is the reason I am trying to avoid using much Chinese figurine and temples/pagodas because it is not ours.

Nice work Les...keep it up!

regards,
jun

I'm sorry, Jun, if I jumped the gun on that last post. Ferdie was probably commenting on your composition, since this is your thread.
thank you for the comment!
I do love your creation! I wish I could get rock like that!