shortcuts to stone treatment, not for everyone
4 posters
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shortcuts to stone treatment, not for everyone
I know that many follow the japanese way of caring for their stones, but it's a bit much for my way of life with too many irons in the fire. So I asked a friend in our club what he does to make his stones look so nice and discovered an easier way. By using a wax product, which can easily be removed, the product is slathered onto the stone and scrubbed in with a toothbrush. I then use a shoe shine brush to give i that subtle sheen.
It involves the use of a product from the U.K., used on leather shoes as a waterproofing agent. It adds a quiet sheen to the stone, darkens it (the first day) then returns to "normal". I was quiet impressed with it and am happy with how my stones look after using it. I found the product here in the U.S. at REI stores. Perhaps if your looking for something to try this may be it. About $9.00 a tube.
It involves the use of a product from the U.K., used on leather shoes as a waterproofing agent. It adds a quiet sheen to the stone, darkens it (the first day) then returns to "normal". I was quiet impressed with it and am happy with how my stones look after using it. I found the product here in the U.S. at REI stores. Perhaps if your looking for something to try this may be it. About $9.00 a tube.
dick benbow- Member
Re: shortcuts to stone treatment, not for everyone
Hi Dick
This is a absolut rotten subject you touch here. On this forum, we have had more than one unpleasent talk about surface treatments. And I learned it the hard way about yoseki...I did not know of it, because I had bought my finished suiseki, and only had found two stones worth keeping in Denmark at that point.
After that, I asked questions about yoseki, but did not really recive a usefull answer....the best was " look for the morningdew" wicht I then have done...I have not reached any conclutions for now...maybe in a year or two.
During the sumer have I found MANY stones in Denmark, wich have given me the uppertunity to really study surfaces.
I looked at old stones in my garden, some of them clearly had too much growing on them....but I also saw, that a chip, who was not even new 15 years ago, still loked new, nothing had changed here. Here I learned "no need to keep a stone with new chips, they will not chance in my lifetime, and always look younger than the rest of the stone, even after yoseki".
I have studyed photos of japanese stones, and my own japanese stones.....and tried to compare the surfaces of my danish stones with them.
More of the danish stones from the ocean has the same surface...clean, and not new, they can go direct in a daiza, some of them will benefit, from having a handcream on them, to bring out the collour, and the contrast in the shape, and to make them look clean....I use a quit expensive cream from " ORIGINS; make a difference". This cream is made from at least 20 diffrent plants, some of them slightly oily...the cream is not oily at all, but is based on water. It gives the stones a dim glow, I can polish up a little, if I want too.....But only on stones that can be polished from the nature, a stone with softer surface, can only recive a fresher collour...I call it, " To bring back the original collour" the stone does not look oily, only natural and clean.
I found some stones really does benefit from yoseki..The following stone used to be pale sandyellow when I found it. It is a limestone from Europe....After being tought about yoseki during the summer, I placed it in the garden. And as you can see, have the stone become quit dark grayish....I have taken it in for the winter, due to the frost. Next summer will it go out again, I want to see what will happen . A another stone found in the same area, also pale yellow, was given a bit oily handcream back then, (not the one I use now)...It have hard times, becomming dark...So dont give surfacetreatments to stones you want to yoseki. Wait.
The stone is 27 cm. wide.
When I am satified with the surface, maybe next year, will I decide, if I will want the uppertunity to display it weat in a suiban, then It must be left without handcream.
I will make a test on the underside, and if the collour becomes very nice, is it very possible, I give it the handcream, and exhibit the stone in a daiza, or dry suiban....no decisions is made yet...I am still learning, and hope readers will give their inputs.
The next stone is a bit glossy by nature, it has not yet recived any treatment to the surface.....This surface is clearly VERY old, created in the ocean.
17 cm. wide
Closeup
To me, this stone does not need yoseki, and maybe will it not benefit from handcream. When I have carved the daiza, will I make a test on the underside.
If you think I highjacked your tread Dick, is it because the questions is so many, and touching the surfacequestion tricked me ....I am new to surface , and my studies the last few months have raised many questions. I hope many people will tune in, and share
About the wax you was told about. I not not sure I would like to touch the surface of the stone afterwards, as wax makes a unpleassent diffrence as far as I know...but maybe your product is diffrent
Kind regards Yvonne
This is a absolut rotten subject you touch here. On this forum, we have had more than one unpleasent talk about surface treatments. And I learned it the hard way about yoseki...I did not know of it, because I had bought my finished suiseki, and only had found two stones worth keeping in Denmark at that point.
After that, I asked questions about yoseki, but did not really recive a usefull answer....the best was " look for the morningdew" wicht I then have done...I have not reached any conclutions for now...maybe in a year or two.
During the sumer have I found MANY stones in Denmark, wich have given me the uppertunity to really study surfaces.
I looked at old stones in my garden, some of them clearly had too much growing on them....but I also saw, that a chip, who was not even new 15 years ago, still loked new, nothing had changed here. Here I learned "no need to keep a stone with new chips, they will not chance in my lifetime, and always look younger than the rest of the stone, even after yoseki".
I have studyed photos of japanese stones, and my own japanese stones.....and tried to compare the surfaces of my danish stones with them.
More of the danish stones from the ocean has the same surface...clean, and not new, they can go direct in a daiza, some of them will benefit, from having a handcream on them, to bring out the collour, and the contrast in the shape, and to make them look clean....I use a quit expensive cream from " ORIGINS; make a difference". This cream is made from at least 20 diffrent plants, some of them slightly oily...the cream is not oily at all, but is based on water. It gives the stones a dim glow, I can polish up a little, if I want too.....But only on stones that can be polished from the nature, a stone with softer surface, can only recive a fresher collour...I call it, " To bring back the original collour" the stone does not look oily, only natural and clean.
I found some stones really does benefit from yoseki..The following stone used to be pale sandyellow when I found it. It is a limestone from Europe....After being tought about yoseki during the summer, I placed it in the garden. And as you can see, have the stone become quit dark grayish....I have taken it in for the winter, due to the frost. Next summer will it go out again, I want to see what will happen . A another stone found in the same area, also pale yellow, was given a bit oily handcream back then, (not the one I use now)...It have hard times, becomming dark...So dont give surfacetreatments to stones you want to yoseki. Wait.
The stone is 27 cm. wide.
When I am satified with the surface, maybe next year, will I decide, if I will want the uppertunity to display it weat in a suiban, then It must be left without handcream.
I will make a test on the underside, and if the collour becomes very nice, is it very possible, I give it the handcream, and exhibit the stone in a daiza, or dry suiban....no decisions is made yet...I am still learning, and hope readers will give their inputs.
The next stone is a bit glossy by nature, it has not yet recived any treatment to the surface.....This surface is clearly VERY old, created in the ocean.
17 cm. wide
Closeup
To me, this stone does not need yoseki, and maybe will it not benefit from handcream. When I have carved the daiza, will I make a test on the underside.
If you think I highjacked your tread Dick, is it because the questions is so many, and touching the surfacequestion tricked me ....I am new to surface , and my studies the last few months have raised many questions. I hope many people will tune in, and share
About the wax you was told about. I not not sure I would like to touch the surface of the stone afterwards, as wax makes a unpleassent diffrence as far as I know...but maybe your product is diffrent
Kind regards Yvonne
Last edited by Yvonne Graubaek on Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:32 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Hi Dick A not too much slipped in, in the end)
Guest- Guest
Re: shortcuts to stone treatment, not for everyone
dick benbow wrote:I know that many follow the japanese way of caring for their stones, but it's a bit much for my way of life with too many irons in the fire. So I asked a friend in our club what he does to make his stones look so nice and discovered an easier way. By using a wax product, which can easily be removed, the product is slathered onto the stone and scrubbed in with a toothbrush. I then use a shoe shine brush to give i that subtle sheen.
It involves the use of a product from the U.K., used on leather shoes as a waterproofing agent. It adds a quiet sheen to the stone, darkens it (the first day) then returns to "normal". I was quiet impressed with it and am happy with how my stones look after using it. I found the product here in the U.S. at REI stores. Perhaps if your looking for something to try this may be it. About $9.00 a tube.
Hello Dick, and first, I wish you a happy new year...
Your stone is interesting, with a beautiful waterfall; This stone is harmonious.
I think that a daiza more elegant, more fine, would be more appropriate. The color would be more dark too....
mathias- Member
Re: shortcuts to stone treatment, not for everyone
Incorrect.Rock suiseki to take water.The wax preventnts water.
peterbrod- Member
"maybe not for everyone"
Yo! Dick, this is a loaded subject and the simple suggestion is great, Thank You.
No need to convince anyone of anything and I think the less said the better!
Options are good, on occasion I have tried many different things, even duck egg yolk!
The wax just makes your stone's colors deep as if wet by the river just collected from.
I know one thing for sure everyone cleans up before they have their picture taken.
I personally think if it doesn't damage or change the stone and comes off easily, no problem!.
But I'm no expert as I'm constantly reminded...
No need to convince anyone of anything and I think the less said the better!
Options are good, on occasion I have tried many different things, even duck egg yolk!
The wax just makes your stone's colors deep as if wet by the river just collected from.
I know one thing for sure everyone cleans up before they have their picture taken.
I personally think if it doesn't damage or change the stone and comes off easily, no problem!.
But I'm no expert as I'm constantly reminded...
stonener- Member
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