Branch or not branch, that´s the question

You can use this technique to thickening the roots base..very effective and fast...

held like that it looks even better with the branch off, shame there wasnt another inch or two of trunk down there before the roots though - that would have solved it nicely, If the tree has more roots directly below the top ones though the upper ones can be slowly cut off to expose more trunk base, then using the technique robert shows on the lower ring of roots would really drag the base out beautifully - you get a longer trunk, better root flare and keep the bottom branch then

marcus

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There are too many..simply selected the strongest ones on expected points and cut off the messy ones...then use my technique to thickening them.

"Good" nebari with roots grow equally around all direction only fit with the "no cut" branch. But with my second option, it should go with one sided base...

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David Cortizas wrote:What a good thinking Marcus.

thankyou, and now i see the picture of the roots you do have a great many, so the upper ones can be removed (a few at a time i think) and the lowest circle can develop thicker. I looked at the link you put up and that is the way to make a perfect root base for sure -

i think the roots eventually want about 9-11 around the trunk, starting as thick as a finger before splitting smaller - this will look very strong.

I have a question for Robert: Is the technique you have shown, the removal of the top layer of soil over selected roots to expand their size and in so doing the base of the tree?

Another question, please; With a smaller tree, how would you proceed with this technique?

Thank you,

Best regards,
Norma

Wow this is a very good thread!

IMHO, I think the problem some have with this design is a basic visual concept we all take for granite and don't realize it. In any design we often look for balance, now that can have a multitude of definitions. We often find any composition to balanced if we can visiualy and mentally divide it by three, each section should be equal, this works both horizontally and vertical. In your minds eye these proportions are more calming pleasing to the eye.
If all this gumb flapping is remotely understandable, let's translate this to bonsai design.
The first one third is the lowest. This is the begining of the story you are trying to create. Because your eyes almost always start at the bottom and go up. This section should contain the pot nabari and trunk ( no branch structure )
The second section should contain most of the branch structure. The visual weight should be less than the first.
The last section should contain the apex structure. This section should be visually lighter than the second
section. And complete the story you are framing.



Now all this can and manipulated in any number of ways or bonsai styles. In this formula order and rhythm are established. If a design looks off kilter you are often in violation of one of these principals.

These are all basic design principals.

Now with all that said I think that Russell and Robert and many others are correct. But as we all know photographs never do a tree justice. You always can exercise your artistic prerogative and just say this is my tree and vision and thats the way I like it!

Mitch

David Cortizas wrote:Thank you Robert, i saw that time ago.

I have to confess I have no clear yet what to do with nebari, today is totally messed up. Look.



I had thought something like this.

http://nostromobonsai.blogspot.com/2011/11/pues-tampoco-lo-habia-pensado.html

In addition to pruning off the top roots, selecting a group of good roots radially dispered aroung the circumference of the trunk and letting them grow wild into the ground to fatten up, you can also raise the whole root mass slightly (1 to 2 inches/2.5 to 5 cm) above the soil level so that the roots make a mini-mound. As the roots grow they will fatten up and will add apparent taper to the tachigari. This will improve the look of the tree and also add a bit of distance under the first branch.

Norma wrote:I have a question for Robert: Is the technique you have shown, the removal of the top layer of soil over selected roots to expand their size and in so doing the base of the tree?

Another question, please; With a smaller tree, how would you proceed with this technique?

Thank you,

Best regards,
Norma

Yes, you are right Norma. For smaller trees, you can pot the pot on a large training pot and let tyhe roots grow into the large training pot instead to to the ground.

I feel I have to thank everybody participating in this excellent thread!
This is a great way to accumulate knowledge for the beginners like I am! Furthermore, to train our eyes to see beyond the very first impression.
Thank you!