orange jelly

Hello,
I had a problem this season with one of my pre bonsai Prunus Jap. incisa koyo no mai.
Some orange jelly appeared around an old cut, i removed it and some came back again.
There was a bit on a nearby branch to afterwards.
I put the tree aside and did not do anything since.
It is a reaction from the tree on a fungus i belief, i do not remember the name of it.
What to do with it, is it lost?

Sunip

Cedar apple rust -- late stages. Clean it off. Spray with a copper fungicide.

Thanks Jim,
That must be it.
I will give it a try with copper fungicide.
I have it only 4 years but it bloomed nice each year.
Sunip

I apologize. I misread and thought for some reason that it was a juniper (and didn't even look at the plant that jelly was clinging to . . . which would have told me). Glad you mentioned "blooming."

But for a Prunus species, that jelly mass means there has been physical damage to the tree somehow. If you haven't pruned it somewhere nearby, clean the goop off and look carefully for signs of borers. If you find them, a systemic MAY help.

Again . . . sorry for the misinformation.

Still looks like some kind of rust to me. I would be careful with it...

An amber colored jelly on Prunus can actually be cytospora canker, which is a fungal disease that is commonly confused with peach tree borers.

But check for the borers too as Jim said, they are a very common problem that, I have read, can be treated with a product containing Spinosad.
-Jay

Hello,
Thanks for your reactions.
It looks a bit like the jelly one sees on junipers yes but there is no tumour growth.
There are no holes so i guess it could be cytospora canker then.
Can i use the same copper fungicide Jim mentioned earlier for this, is there any hope?
I keep it at distance from other trees.
I used to have them in the greenhouse over the winter to get early blossom,
but now i leave it outside.
Maybe the overwintering is the reason it has the fungus?
Sunip

Here's some quick info of cytospora,
http://www.colostate.edu/programs/wcrc/pubs/research_outreach/cytosporacanker.pdf

Unfortunately there is not much to be done once the infection is present, and its a good bet it may have entered through bark cracks from being left out all winter, or also pruning wounds which is the most common way it gets established.

Treat all wounds, maintain vigor of the tree, prune out any dead or diseased branches, don't leave stubs. Try to keep major pruning to early spring and not when rain is imminent. Treat pruning cuts larger than one inch in diameter with a paint of 1%
thiram or 3-10% Copper Naphthenate.

Its mostly all about prevention, and protection of any wounds you, or the tree itself may create.
-Jay

Thanks Jay,
A helpful link.
I planned to cut down an other and bigger one to shohin size in the future,
but this will be a tricky undertaking.
The wound should be extremely clean and covered for many years till, it will be grown over.
Sunip,

Don't get too hopeful. These kinds of things are very, very hard to cure. Be sure you have segregated the plant away from all other plums, cherries, peaches, apples, and pears or better yet, ANY member of the rose family.

Hello Jim.
I my last post i was not talking about the infected tree
but about an other one of the same species.
I have to be extremely careful in progressing with this one into a bonsai,
not that easy with prunus it seems.
Well i think i have to forget about the infected one, there are to many trees in my garden
to have it really isolated.
thanks, Sunip

sunip wrote:

The wound should be extremely clean and covered for many years till, it will be grown over.
Sunip,

Thats the basic Idea for prevention at all times with Prunus, or for that matter ALL trees you work on, as Jim notes once the tree has it the chances for survival are low. The stress of Bonsai culture always makes our trees more prone to problems than their wild cousins thats why I feel maintaining the trees Vigor is the top priority in Bonsai culture, all else comes secondarily.
Good luck and at the very least its a learning experience.
-Jay

sunip wrote:Hello Jim.
I my last post i was not talking about the infected tree
but about an other one of the same species.
I have to be extremely careful in progressing with this one into a bonsai,
not that easy with prunus it seems.
Well i think i have to forget about the infected one, there are to many trees in my garden
to have it really isolated.
thanks, Sunip

Stone fruits will always give you trouble, but they are a labor of love. Its just the way they are. If its not a mold, its a blight. If its not a blight its a canker, if its not a canker its an insect its ALWAYS something it seems. I have an orchard of 18 dwarf fruit trees and the trees that I always have to fret over are the stone fruits EVERY YEAR...!

But they are just so beautiful, Is it worth it? Sure why not.
-Jay

Hello Jay,
Yes they are so beautiful in early spring.
It remembers me of a story about an English lord who got rid of his beautiful rose collection in his garden.
He planted instead Dahlias, absolutely not done in his circle of course.
Ask why, because the rose is naturally the queen of all flowers, he answered.
Yes they are the queen of all flowers but they also have the habits of them.
Dahlias are like the farmers wife, never a problem.
Sunip

Cure all injuries, maintain energy of the shrub, trim out any dead or infected offices, don't leave statement. Try to keep major trimming to may and not when rain is certain. Cure trimming reduces larger than one inch across with a colour of 1% thiram or 3-10% Birdwatcher Naphthalene.

ananursing wrote: Try to keep major trimming to may and not when rain is certain.

Thank you Ananursing,
I read major cutting should be done in the autumn but i understand in may the leaves are hardened
and can give optimal support to callusing the wound.
If i cut the trunk down to start a shohin size tree, may makes more sense.
Sunip