yamadori juniper

Hi IBC

Here is my first big yamadori, came out of my nieghbors yard (yes i had permision). I was real worried about this dig because Ive been told old garden junipers dont like to be removed. The good news the subsoil in our nieghborhood is very hard clay and rock. The builders didnt bother to put very much topsoil in, about 12 inches.(good for bonsai bad for fence posts ) Anyway the taproot was wrapped around and didnt go straight down, in fact most of the roots were above the subsoil and I removed a nice compact rootball. I used a come-a-long (not sure what u call it , hand winch) this by the way is crucial to anyone digging yamadori. Somebody posted this idea and it worked great. So here it is



The base is 6" diameter and the main trunk is 4" diameter collected height 42" and width 60"
Any comments, advice or (I know its way to early) virtuals would gladly be appriciated.
Thanks so much to Todd, will, and Sam who gave me collecting advice.

Aloha
Arno

Have you tied it down properly? So it does not move in the breeze while producing new roots.

Mick

Hi IBC

I dont post much because I have only a few trees but here is a photo of this same juniper Its recovering well good growth already. I hope somebody like Pavel or of similar Juniper knowledge will respond because I have many Questions. The growth of this tree is very far away from the trunk and I need to know some basic ideas for back budding. I know that you have to keep groth at tips to ecourage the flow but are there any other bits of knowledge. Also I see many people doing some radical bending to get the shape they want but not sure if my growth is too far away? Any design ideas or suggestions how to proceed would be great. I understand to take it slow and I have no plans to attack this tree quikly, but some ideas as to direction for design woukld be great. This tree is very big ( my biggest) and I dont want to ruin it!

Thanks
Arno

Hey bud thats a great tree. Now just back off and let it rest for a couple of years. Tie down the tree so it does not fall over in strong wind. Actually protect it from strong wind. in the mean time go get more trees.

Best wishes.

Luc

Its never too early to begin thinking of a design but lets make sure the tree survives. Take care of that part and I'm sure someone in time will do a virtual for you.

handy mick wrote: Have you tied it down properly? So it does not move in the breeze while producing new roots.

luc tran wrote:... ... Tie down the tree so it does not fall over in strong wind. Actually protect it from strong wind... ...

Do not overlook this, please!
From March (1st post) to July (last post) I cannot view any ties, or am I wrong?
Wish you the best for your juniper!

Ok I was ignoring the tie down comments because when I dug it up I took a rootball so huge the tree dosent move at all. What you see is all rootball, nice flat and compact. I checked it and it has already made new roots at the edge of the cinder blocks you see. I dont know if anybody noticed but I live in Hawaii, the grow season is constant here. This tree has already sprouted twice new growth since I pulled it out 6 months ago. I relize im too early for design stage but my question is how to get growth closer in to the trunk. I may be wrong but I believe that here in Hawaii we get twice as much grow season which means the traditional wait 2 years is reduced to a year or so. Anyway if im wrong let me know, Sam u there?

Arno

branches bend down to sun can to trunk and grafting , grafting grafting ..............................

Good job so far. The tropical growth cycle does indeed speed up the process, however the tree is very leggy, hence I agree with Martin, grafting may be your best long term solution. If you haven't tried it, practice a bit. The best time for veneer grafting in your climate would be around Christmas. Approach grafting can be done pretty much any time but spring is best. Take your time and enjoy the process.

Hey good Idea guys Thanks!. I didnt really think of that but I thinkl that could be good, Ill try on a couple spots that Im not sure about because if it dont work Ill just deadwood it any way.
Thanks All !

Arno

hey curtis:

congrats with growing the juniper. I've never been able to keep one alive. if you have access to shimpaku whips (kishu works good) I'd consider approach grafts. they are easy to do and have a good success rate. good luck

best wishes, sam

hey Sam,

Thanks, I think it was only luck to keep it alive, the roots were rather compact and intact. It almost looked like it had been growing in a container and then bus loose. So it wasent much skill An the topsoil was real shallow. Anyway you think grafts are the way to go? Im not to good at them but I guess I could learn. Approach grafting some shimpaku, if I can find it sounds more my speed might try that first. Its starting to backbud a little, the original canopy was so thick nothing grew undrneath for quit a few years. I thinned it a lot now. The thing Im not sure about is if there is anything in paticular that helps buck budding? Moisture maybe? I know you need to keep the flow of the sap otherwise the limb dies most times so Im working on backbudding but I may try some grafts because I really have nothing to lose

Arno

hi arno

considering my track record with yard junipers, take what I have to say with a grain-maybe two grains of salt. inmho, Id go to several shimpaku grafts asap , as I do not believe that manipulation of water, fertilizer,soil or pruning will produce enough or sufficient interior growth to make the effort worthwhile. good luck.

aloha, sam

sounds good (as far as Im concerned your opinion is gold) Im going to let it rest for a while anyway, so I guess ill start shopping for shimpaku. Im going to contact Randy I think you might know him he has a huge (maybe only ) Bonsai nursary on Maui, He can probly get shimpaku if he dosent already have some

Thanks Again
Arno