Haematoxylum campechianum - Logwood
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Haematoxylum campechianum - Logwood
This tree is not native to this island, I think it was planted for the heartwood which is red and makes a dye.
Specimen collected from a drain, has some age probably over 25 years ? The heartwood is very durable. Problem is it is mostly leaf dense, not highly branching and I am about ready to give it and send it to someone else [ for free, I don't sell, just give gifts ] but I keep my pot. chuckle.
Before and after pruning images. Another problem is on the stand, I can't get back far enough to see it.
**** as with an oil painting ----> you need to get back at least 3 times the greatest length - height, widith or diagonal, to see for designing. This is important, don't forget it. The biggest shape is what any viewer sees first and if the outer shape [ the canopy, trunk ] is attractive, it will invite the eye to keep looking.
If it is a poor big shape, words will do nothing to help.
Remember as in oil painting --------- if one has to use words to attract attention and hold it ------ it is a failure.
The same goes for a bonsai. The effort should be able to stand by itself, first glance and it looks like a tree or it is a failure.
Hopefully this will guide those who want to keep pushing the craft into an art form.
Feel free to suggest designs.
New growth and growing on leaves are very beautiful of colour. There are quite a few very beautiful bonsai of this tree. This one is not one of them - apologies.
Khaimraj
Any how, the before -
the after
[url=https://servimg.com/view/15664820/153][/u
Link to somewhat mature tree - all the old specimens we have, easily visible have been hacked and are not typical of shape anymore.
http://pics.davesgarden.com/pics/2008/09/28/cactus_lover/cd20fe.jpg
Specimen collected from a drain, has some age probably over 25 years ? The heartwood is very durable. Problem is it is mostly leaf dense, not highly branching and I am about ready to give it and send it to someone else [ for free, I don't sell, just give gifts ] but I keep my pot. chuckle.
Before and after pruning images. Another problem is on the stand, I can't get back far enough to see it.
**** as with an oil painting ----> you need to get back at least 3 times the greatest length - height, widith or diagonal, to see for designing. This is important, don't forget it. The biggest shape is what any viewer sees first and if the outer shape [ the canopy, trunk ] is attractive, it will invite the eye to keep looking.
If it is a poor big shape, words will do nothing to help.
Remember as in oil painting --------- if one has to use words to attract attention and hold it ------ it is a failure.
The same goes for a bonsai. The effort should be able to stand by itself, first glance and it looks like a tree or it is a failure.
Hopefully this will guide those who want to keep pushing the craft into an art form.
Feel free to suggest designs.
New growth and growing on leaves are very beautiful of colour. There are quite a few very beautiful bonsai of this tree. This one is not one of them - apologies.
Khaimraj
Any how, the before -
the after
[url=https://servimg.com/view/15664820/153][/u
Link to somewhat mature tree - all the old specimens we have, easily visible have been hacked and are not typical of shape anymore.
http://pics.davesgarden.com/pics/2008/09/28/cactus_lover/cd20fe.jpg
Khaimraj Seepersad- Member
Re: Haematoxylum campechianum - Logwood
Khaimraj,
Haematoxylon is beautiful bonsai subject, provided that you follow its natural habits when shaping the tree. I have seen this species trained in the pine shape. Although well trained and since I am used to seeing them in the wild, the pine form, in my opinion, is not a suitable style. I only have one specimen, which is currently under development. Below, a picture of the 'still in training' tree:
Close up view: Branches are left long to atain the desired girth
Any similarities:
Haematoxylon is beautiful bonsai subject, provided that you follow its natural habits when shaping the tree. I have seen this species trained in the pine shape. Although well trained and since I am used to seeing them in the wild, the pine form, in my opinion, is not a suitable style. I only have one specimen, which is currently under development. Below, a picture of the 'still in training' tree:
Close up view: Branches are left long to atain the desired girth
Any similarities:
jrodriguez- Member
Re: Haematoxylum campechianum - Logwood
Jose,
if you can, please draw me a projection of what my tree could look like.
My patience is at an end with this tree.
Or can I freeze dry it and you add water on your end, when the post arrives.
Hopefully.
Khaimraj
if you can, please draw me a projection of what my tree could look like.
My patience is at an end with this tree.
Or can I freeze dry it and you add water on your end, when the post arrives.
Hopefully.
Khaimraj
Khaimraj Seepersad- Member
Re: Haematoxylum campechianum - Logwood
Reynald,
as an image that works very well. Thank you!
Khaimraj
as an image that works very well. Thank you!
Khaimraj
Khaimraj Seepersad- Member
Re: Haematoxylum campechianum - Logwood
Okay Jose,
is that a Haematoxylon ?
[2] Size ?
[3] Soil mix ?
[4] Less important - age ?
Address where I can send my minions to steal it.
Khaimraj
is that a Haematoxylon ?
[2] Size ?
[3] Soil mix ?
[4] Less important - age ?
Address where I can send my minions to steal it.
Khaimraj
Khaimraj Seepersad- Member
Re: Haematoxylum campechianum - Logwood
Reynald,
firstly, let me once again thank you. This tree was going to be re-planted in a safe area as I could not figure it out. It is leaf dense, not branch / branchlet dense. However the new growth [ which is constant - read daily ] is in bronze, reds, yellows and greens, to deep greens. Very visually attractive.
So I am going to work on the negative spaces, and allow the tree to develop the domes, that I have seen on one tree, now dying in the graveyard [ I kid thee not - chuckle.]
To do this I will have to do a complete defoliation and place the tree where I can see it easily.
I have also changed the pruning technique to every first leaf, after 3 leaves have formed.
Tree is due for it's once every 3 years re-pot. Joy, even more new growth.
A quick diagram of the negative space and what I see in about 3 years or so. Negative space in reddish colouring.
firstly, let me once again thank you. This tree was going to be re-planted in a safe area as I could not figure it out. It is leaf dense, not branch / branchlet dense. However the new growth [ which is constant - read daily ] is in bronze, reds, yellows and greens, to deep greens. Very visually attractive.
So I am going to work on the negative spaces, and allow the tree to develop the domes, that I have seen on one tree, now dying in the graveyard [ I kid thee not - chuckle.]
To do this I will have to do a complete defoliation and place the tree where I can see it easily.
I have also changed the pruning technique to every first leaf, after 3 leaves have formed.
Tree is due for it's once every 3 years re-pot. Joy, even more new growth.
A quick diagram of the negative space and what I see in about 3 years or so. Negative space in reddish colouring.
Khaimraj Seepersad- Member
LOGWOOD
Khaimraj,,, this is only my opion,,I think the tree looks good but it would be better without the middle deadwood..to me it looks too thick with it..no offence really i just like the open space in the virtual picture.. let us know your desion...take care john
moyogijohn- Member
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