Ficus Microcarpa Greem Island

Both these ficus are grafted they are 20in tall...they came from Mississippi...tell me what you think--John


A second photo:

Too much top, shorten

I don't know Billy. Although I don't disagree with you, do you not perhaps think lengthening and thickening lower branches would help? Even lowering the angle to fill lower empty spaces without losing overall height?

One should always consider the species and where someone is posting. The person who posted the pictures and question is from West Virginia, USA. It is now the end of November; they will not have a 70 F again until maybe March. His growing season is 1/2 to 1/3 the growing season in Taiwan.

John,

the first one is very elegant.

Yes, work on the first branch to thicken and open out the foliage.

Tighten on the pinching, and keep it more compact. Domes [ upside down bowls ] and airspaces for the birds to fly through.

Maybe much later, if this ficus can do ariel roots, just one in the right place.
I like it very much.

The second looks as though it could be top shortened, but it will also be beautiful. Slim and Elegant or Stout, as you wish.
I also like.

Best of growing and thanks for showing.
Keep the images coming as the trees grow on.
Later.
Khaimraj

p.s Even though I am not a lover of ficus, please when you get bored with them, post to W.I. .........

On the first one the root crossing in front is visually distracting and should be removed (or better still, layer the tree above the "nest" of roots). On the second, the apex is a straight shot up after some dramatic curving in the lower trunk. If it were mine I'd wire and put some bends into the apex to reflect what's going on elsewhere. For what it's worth.

Zach

I like the first tree. I agree that that front root is a bit unsightly, but rather than cutting it off (which would leave a large scar at the base) you might simply try to plant the tree deeper in its NEW AND DIFFERENT pot (preferably oval, a greenish or cream color, and deeper). A layer might work, too, but that takes time and the new roots will be small and fragile for quite a while. And you already have a nice swelling base there.



As others have said the top on the other tree isn't very attractive. Cutting it back by a third, allowing new sprouts to form, then cutting it back again if necessary would work as well or better than trying to put a natural-looking bend in it (IMO) will help improve it, but I think the first tree will always be the best tree.

Zach Smith wrote:On the first one the root crossing in front is visually distracting and should be removed (or better still, layer the tree above the "nest" of roots).
Zach

Could the "offending" root not be covered up by more roots which will also enhance the nebari? Adding sphagum moss around the base to promote new roots in the next growing season could be used to try and disguise or soften the appearance of the root without affect tree.

Cockroach wrote:

Zach Smith wrote:On the first one the root crossing in front is visually distracting and should be removed (or better still, layer the tree above the "nest" of roots).
Zach

Could the "offending" root not be covered up by more roots which will also enhance the nebari? Adding sphagum moss around the base to promote new roots in the next growing season could be used to try and disguise or soften the appearance of the root without affect tree.

That might just do the trick. Cover the root area with sphagnum moss as if layering (no removal of bark and cambium), keep moist and new roots should emerge at the root crown. These could be trained appropriately. It should all look "ficusy" when done.

Zach

John,
I like the first tree, if it were mine I would try to increase the ramification which would help in reducing the size of the leaves. This in my opinion would increase the impression of age that the tree needs. Also in doing this you still be feeding the tree so the trunk and branches will be increasing in size but at a more measured and controlled pace, perhaps a fertilizer with little or no nitrogen. And most importantly let it grow in full sunlight for as long as you possibly can (can't recall where you are located as I type). This will aid in the leaf reduction and the ramification as ficus tend to have longer internodes and larger leaves when grown in shade, for the simple reason that the plant requires more surface area on the leaf for phototsynthesis - hence larger leaf catches more sunlight and longer internode means the tree gets taller reaching the sunlight faster. I also would not repot unless I really had to as making the plant root-bound helps in leaf reduction.

As for the 2nd tree, its really down to what what the tree says to you or if you don't talk to trees , the style/shape you think best expresses what the tree is about. Shortening it would work or if you could get it to back bud lower down the trunk then those branches could be developed. The easier road would be to airlayer the top and start from scratch with the base, but a more patient man might be tempted to try getting some lower branches either by back budding or perhaps a couple of grafts.

Spring is around the corner, you could defoliate, cut out the growing buds, feed it hard and see what it does for you...at the very worst you will get some more ramification.

Regards,
Nigel

Gotta say, with the second one I would probally wire the whole straight leader
and then bend the whole thing down and over to the left running kinda parallel
to the 45 degree angle of your trunk, making it in essence your first branch.
Then pull up a new leader from what exist near the bend.

THANK YOU ALL for your responces to these trees.... I did a lot of the things suggested,, then passed them both to aT friend.. I will say they looked a lot better !!! Thanks for your HELP...TAKE CARE JOHN