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Development of a Chamaecyparis

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anttal63
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Development of a Chamaecyparis Empty Development of a Chamaecyparis

Post  Scott Tice Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:18 am

Here's a tree I purchased from Masa Furukawa in about 2000.

November 2001
Development of a Chamaecyparis November2001

February 2002
Development of a Chamaecyparis February2002

August 2003
Development of a Chamaecyparis August2003

October 2003
Development of a Chamaecyparis P1010040sm

May 2004
Development of a Chamaecyparis May2004

August 2006
Development of a Chamaecyparis August2006

October 2007
Development of a Chamaecyparis October2007

November 2007
Development of a Chamaecyparis November2007

and finally - January 2010...
Development of a Chamaecyparis Jan10


Last edited by Scott Tice on Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:51 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  sitarbonsai Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:05 am

the nebari looks good and the tree looks more matured
new pot is nice too
good tree
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Post  John Quinn Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:13 pm

Nice progression, Scott! Welcome to the forum!
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Post  Scott Tice Wed Jan 06, 2010 4:26 pm

Thanks! I was a member of the old forum and kinda' lost track in the move. Glad to be back.
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Post  gman Wed Jan 06, 2010 4:55 pm

Nice progression Scott, what type of cypress is it?
Cheers Gman
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Post  Velodog2 Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:08 pm

The limited experience I have had with Chamaecyparis has lead me to believe they have the ability to quickly increase nebari and lower trunk diameter while in a bonsai pot. This progression seems to support that observation.

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Post  Cees Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:43 pm

I like the tree, nice progression.
I don't like the colour of the pot bud that's personal.

Greetings,
Cees.
http://cees-bonsai4me.blogspot.com/
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Post  tuyhoabob Thu Jan 07, 2010 4:36 am

The new pot and color don't do much for me either however, you have done outstanding work on improving the tree. Good eye!
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Post  Scott Tice Fri Jan 08, 2010 12:27 am

Thanks for the kind words. The pot is just for the meantime and the most suitable ATM.
I believe it to be a dwarf cultivar of the Obtusa species from Japan. Not sure though.

Michael Hagedorn has been my teacher the past 2 years so I cannot take all the credit. I've learned more taking his classes in the past two years than in the eight years prior.
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Post  Scott Tice Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:50 am

More views...

Development of a Chamaecyparis IMG_0336
Development of a Chamaecyparis IMG_0335
Development of a Chamaecyparis IMG_0334
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Post  Velodog2 Fri Jan 08, 2010 4:00 am

Errrr, as much as I like the tree as it currently is, have you considered turning it 90 degrees? The left and right view pics seem to have a lot of potential.

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Post  Kev Bailey Fri Jan 08, 2010 10:05 am

Velodog beat me to it. I'd say carefully consider your side view as it looks like it would be a better front without the V.
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Post  Scott Tice Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:55 pm

The photos can be deceiving. I know the Y Slingshot trunk thing ain't the best, but this tree will NEVER be a "traditional" japanese style.
I will, however, give it a thorough look see again with my teacher and discuss other possibilities. Stay tuned, and thanks for the positive comments.
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Post  anttal63 Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:34 am

beautiful tree! good work! as said, i stongly agree the side views are far more dynamic, not just slightly. cheers
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Post  Joe Hatfield Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:53 pm

Digging the progression.
It was interesting to see that it had not been re potted for several years. I'm no expert on Cyprus, is that a common practice? And, if so what did you do to archive the growth you have accomplished. I'm on the other side of the states and I wonder if I could achieve the same amount of progression in the same time.
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Post  Scott Tice Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:42 am

I repotted every 2-3 years like clockwork. Very important. You just might not have noticed because I used the same pot most of the time. I use "Boon" soil, 1/3 Akadama, 1/3 Red/Black Lave, 1/3 Pumice with a small handful of charcoal.
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Post  Joe Hatfield Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:54 pm

Ty for the clarification. Again, very nice tree. I like what you have done.
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Post  littleart-fx Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:24 pm

Hello scott,

I own one to, you've mentioned that every two three years repotting has to be done and said it was important.
Can you explain way this is?

Nice development for not such an ease of a tree.

How is pruning for you? i am constantly pruning from the insides and somehow every side to control and stimulate lower/inner parts.
(lack of backbudding)
Grows like a luny tough...... cheers

In styling i would take another front to, i think the left side has opportunity written all over,....that's just me who is saying that......

Keep up the good work!

@all question, these species dont like to be tickled as in.....shari's and so on can anyone recommend how to do it in one time or bit by bit?

grtzz machiel.
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Post  Rick Moquin Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:03 pm

littleart-fx wrote:Hello scott,

I own one to, you've mentioned that every two three years repotting has to be done and said it was important.
Can you explain way this is?

I own several as well. A properly cared for and fed tree will fill a pot in two years (read properly fitted pot) 3 years at the most. The key to repotting IMO is to catch the tree at the proper moment when repotting needs to be done, vice repotting when it has to be done (e.g root bound). It is easier on the roots. Chamaecyparis have a beautiful mat of fine "tender" feeder roots. I prefer being gentle with them.

The other reason for repotting when they need it, is that you chose the time to do it vice being dictated by a compacted root ball. The latter may occur at an inopportune time of the year where, repotting may not be possible but emergency care will need to be carried out. The reason once again I do not prefer to be dictated on when to repot is because we usually notice a decline in a trees health (if we didn't pick up on the fact that the tree is being pushed out of the pot (by the roots) or our soil is no longer as free draining)). I would prefer to repot a healthy tree than one that health has declined.
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Post  littleart-fx Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:11 pm

Ok. i understand. i do not have this problem yet cause mine is in a training pot big enough.
Root pruning is a common thing on these trees then? and does this help to make a nice nebari?
Roots in hair styles (other topic) all over the placece indeed!

As mentioned in my formal post jin and especially shari can i conduct these in one time, i've heart that these are in this case
gen-tall to approach species
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Post  littleart-fx Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:15 pm

@ scott again.

watched the tree as it is on big screen, and now i know why it is styled so....keep it this way .
It won't be easy to make huge changes cause of the tree's lack of backbudding

more interested in your'e pruning thoughts though!

grtzz machiel!
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Post  littleart-fx Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:17 pm

@ scott again.

watched the tree as it is on big screen, and now i know why it is styled so....keep it this way .
It won't be easy to make huge changes cause of the tree's lack of backbudding

more interested in your'e pruning thoughts though!

grtzz machiel!

cant seem to edit this out of sight, so yes you're old and didn't read this twice?
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Post  Fuzzy Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:57 pm

Very nice tree! Though I have to agree with Velodog2 and Jim with regards to turning the tree 90 degrees. Then it would be a very very nice tree with beautiful movement.

Russ. Smile
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