Linden Tree

When I found this tree a few years ago I never imagined that this ugly stump could get something reasonable in this short period of time.
Some trees can surprise you.

The first pic is from autumn 2009, the last from autumn 2014.

Regards,
Marco

Absolutely love being able to see the full progression of this tree and particularly seeing what you say as it was still growing in the forest is quite inspiring to me to go hiking more this later winter/early spring. This picture thread has got me super fired up to go collecting in a couple months. Amazing for a 5 year year span.

very nice

Nice progression. I'd like to see it when it leafs out.

John Quinn wrote:Nice progression. I'd like to see it when it leafs out.

Add me to that list.

That's a great progression. Can you give us an idea of size, either height or trunk width at the base?

Chris

Hi Chris,

the tree is 50 cm in Height, the trunk diameter is about 16cm.

Regards,
Marco

Thanks Marco! That's a good size and seeing what you've been able to accomplish in about 5 years gives me some idea of what I might be able to do with mine, once I dig it out of the growing bed.

Oh, forgot to ask - I assume this is Tilia cordata?

Chris

Thanks for sharing this great progression, its the second Linden progress thread ive seen in the space of a weekend!
More proof its an undervalued species. ive trusted my instincts and have two of these in development now
Would love to see yours in autumn leaf.

Oh, shame on me, I don´t even know, if it´s Tilia cordata or platyphyllos. I have a look in spring. The autumn leaves are not very spectacular, they get a little bit yellowish an then fall off very soon.

Regards,
Marco

05 years - Nice progress.

5 years ?


'nuff said !

Great tree there, especially as it's developed so quickly.

I really like the way you've styled it too, very (dare I say it?)...............naturalistic!!!!!

Regards

Richard

The tree has made this progression because it was set into the growing field for two years. That´s why he gained a lot of vitality and maintained it after it was set into the pot. Despite everything I was surprised.

Richard, maybe one can call this "naturalistic", but it is not my goal to style a naturalistic bonsai, but a form that fits well to the restrictions of the trunk (for example to camouflage the very hard cuttings).

Regards,
Marco

So you dug it from the "wild" in 2009, planted it in your garden for 2 years, then potted it? So it's only been in the pot for about 3 years?

Chris

coh wrote:So you dug it from the "wild" in 2009, planted it in your garden for 2 years, then potted it? So it's only been in the pot for about 3 years?

Chris

Chris, yes, correct!

Regards,
Marco

Terrific!

If you have a few moments, perhaps you can share some of your experience with this species...culture (soil, fertilizer), trimming/wiring and how the tree responds? As I mentioned before, I have a couple of these that I had in pots for a year or two, then planted in the ground to build up the trunks. While they were in pots, I had quite a bit of trouble keeping them healthy - leaves would look good early then get yellowish and sometimes curl during the summer. I suspected some kind of nutrient problem but hadn't solved it before planting them in the ground.

By the way, I've found them to be very vigorous in the ground, no problems at all even in our recent harsh winters.

Thanks,

Chris

Bonsai4me says to give them a dose of ericaceous fertiliser from time to time.." Tilia prefer a very slightly acidic soil and on a long-term basis will begin to suffer from the effects of lime in hard water unless given an occasional dose of ericaceous fertiliser." ive got mine in normal bonsai soil/organics, but i have some slow release ericaceous fert on hand if need be. not sure if that helps, im new to the species myself but ive done quite a bit of research on them.

I got these tips from the supplier regarding my own Tilia

"small leaves will come as soon as the tree is mature so with many roots but in a small pot and grown in mineral soil. Fertilizing and watering should be done reasonable. To get more branches you might try cutting of the leaves in early summer (+- two weeks after the leaves are completely developed). Cutting of branches should be done in the winter period."

"An occasional death of branches is not uncommon for Tilia.

Make sure that the tree stands free and gets everywhere  enough light."

Chris, this is my only linden tree, so I don´t have much experience. But there is no other treatment, than with my other decidous species like Carpinus betulus or Prunus mahaleb...
My soil consists of "broken expanded clay" (don´t know if these are the right words) together with some peat. My fertilizer are organic and anorganic in turns. Maybe it is a big advantage, that the crown is quite dense now, so the soil surface is in the shadow of the crown. So the soil does not get so hot in summer and the roots stay active.

Regards,
Marco

Thanks Bobby and Marco.

When mine were potted, since they were young seedlings and came from a regular nursery, they were in a more typical nursery mix...heavily peat based, more like "potting soil" than bonsai soil. So it's quite possible they were staying too wet and having some root problems. Once I harvest them from the growing bed they'll be transitioned to an aggregate-based soil. That is still a few years off but I'm very much looking forward to working with them, based on the impressive specimens you've been posting.

Chris

Nice tree Marco a good progression. Well done mate. I would say it is cordata since platyphyllos tend to produce scary big sized leaves.
I think it likes rather more watering than less, if you keep it too dry in summer leaves tend to get burn marks on edges and sometimes burned spots in centers.

Maros Belan wrote:Nice tree Marco a good progression. Well done mate. I would say it is cordata since platyphyllos tend to produce scary big sized leaves.
I think it likes rather more watering than less, if you keep it too dry in summer leaves tend to get burn marks on edges and sometimes burned spots in centers.

Points noted Maros...being such a leafy tree, i'd imagine it likes a drink too.

Any update on this tree Marco? Should be popping buds soon I think : )

Hi,
I'm an amateur in Bonsais, but one question is bothering me.

I see in the first pic posted, it seems like a tree of height at least 9-10 ft with well grown trunk.
Why cut such a well grown tree just for Bonsai making?  Isn't bonsai making about getting the trunk growth by our effort?

Though i think the Bonsai looks great after 5 years of work, the first thought i had was "Man! he has cut a big tree just for his bonsai"
Please enlighten.

Thanks.

Don't get me wrong. To chop the trunk is one of bonsai technique to get ahead of time and have nice thick base for small bonsai tree. This is done if you "don't have time" as human life span is sometimes short to create real bonsai. Why not use this technique if you know what you doing and keep the tree live. Bonsai is a very delicate art and I love it. Hope this help you to better understand bonsai.

@Yamasuri
Well explained, i understand now. Thanks.