Siberian Elm Development

Here are some pics of a Siberian elm I collected as a ground layer two years ago. I plan to repot it this spring to both check on the root development and improve the planting angle. I'm considering chopping the branch that abruptly changes direction and brings the top back over the base of the tree. I may also just leave it alone and do nothing more than check on the roots and planting angle. It is about 3" across at the base.









I'd appreciate any advice anyone would like to give me. Happy New Year!

Of the pictures you have posted, the tree's scars are seen only when the curve of the trunk is hidden. Is there a view that might show both? There really is, in my opionion, a lot of potential in this tree. I like it a lot! It may well end up a rare tree that is top notch from all directions.

I'd cut it right below that knobbish 90.

and off that little sucker.

Nice material.

Sorce

I like the first image as the front, and don't find the scarred side at all attractive. If it were mine, I'd cut all branches back to one or two buds, but would not make any major cuts in the trunk yet. Nice potential.

I have some of these. Mine are the fastest growing trees on the benches. 4 foot of growth in a year after chopping and digging. 3 years from collection to pot. One thing you need to do is keep this tree vigorous. Root pruning every year helps. The reason is if you let it rest on its laurels it will lose an occasional branch. Cutting back hard and root pruning keeps the tree on its toes. Don't worry, when you check the roots there will be lots. Another thing. When digging these check out the tap root. They are as big as the base of the tree and go through the ground in a crazy twisting manner. The root cuttings make awesome trees. Have fun. This tree will keep you busy. Oh yeah. Fertilizer and all the sun you can give it.

Exciting amount of potential on this tree.

I would keep all your main branches for the time being. The advise from Jim Lewis is good. I like the odd placement and look of the 90 degree angle, that unfortunately has a knob. When trimming branches short, as Jim suggested, leave a few immediately below the knob long, let them escape for a couple seasons, to thicken the trunk below the knob. The knob should disappear as the trunk thickens.

Here are a couple shots of the tree last spring. They are definitely vigorous growers. Since it was a ground layer I won't have to deal with a tap rot, but I haven't seen the roots in two seasons. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I actually have roots all the way around. I'm definitely going to prune back to two or three buds on all branches and do some wiring. maybe I'll get budding on the older wood like I did last year. For now I'm keeping the sucker. I can always cut it off later if it interferes with the design.






I carved out the dead stumps this summer. I think it's off to a pretty good start, I'll just have to wait and see how it develops.

Nice bark on it

Really nice piece of material there, great bark and plenty of character in the trunk, especially with the carving which certainly looks a lot better than ugly saw cuts.

For me though the big problem is with that dead straight first branch/sub trunk. It's just such a contrast with the gently curving main trunk. I fear that over time it could only get thicker and more noticeable. The 90 degree bend isn't very pleasing to the eye either.

I think if it was mine I would give serious thought to cutting it all off close to the trunk and building an entirely new branch structure. If you left a stump it would probably pop some buds from around the base and anyway, being an Elm and obviously very vigorous, it should back bud elsewhere too.

You could leave the small branch that's growing at the base, I think that could be used but like I say, for me at least, that straight section would have to go.

Having said that, I have a big Siberian Elm that probably needs similar treatment. Somehow it's always easier to make that kind of radical recommendation for someone else's tree than it is to do it to your own

Regards

Richard

Here is a slightly better front. The 90 degree branch does not look quite so extreme from here. A couple months to do until spring however. No need to get impatient.

Cordon

I like that front. And angles tend to soften with growth.

If you cut most of those whippy branches back o a couple of nodes, it will start the buds further back on the branches to develop, giving you a head start.

That really is a nice chunk of trunk but I don't think that's the best view of it and however I look at the tree I still see that 90 degree bend as an eye sore.

I'd have to cut it back to at least the first branch below the 90 degree bend if not the second.

Like you say though there's certainly no rush. Good luck with it and keep us posted.

Regards 

Richard