JBP stub, when to remove?
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JBP stub, when to remove?
I bought 2 Japanese Black Pine. One is a larger landscaper's tree which I chopped w/ a big/long stub. The other is a smaller JBP grown for bonsai. It has some stubs (at chop/pruning areas) as well and I am just wondering when is the best time to remove them.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Poink88- Member
Re: JBP stub, when to remove?
If you're just removing the deadwood and will not cut into the live part you could do it now. If you have to cut into the live wood I'd wait until late fall early winter where you are.
Bob Pressler- Member
Re: JBP stub, when to remove?
Thanks a lot Bob.
I am not in a hurry so I'll just wait 'till early winter, though the stubs look all dead/dry now. Better safe than sorry.
I am not in a hurry so I'll just wait 'till early winter, though the stubs look all dead/dry now. Better safe than sorry.
Poink88- Member
Re: JBP stub, when to remove?
hi Dario,
if they are stubs that you want to remove totally with concave cutters I never wait as the tree needs to heal over the cut anyway, so an active growing tree helps and you need to cut into live cambium to begin the proccess (they do totally heal over most cuts - even complete trunk chops roll over and bark up - there is a 7-8cm cut nearly gone on my bigger tree). A good proper sticky cut paste pressed on hard stops the sap dripping.
If you are carving them a bit into jin there are 2 ways to go - totally fresh wood is best if you prefer the peeling method of lifting fibres and pulling them back with pliers but dried out wood carves better with tools so it depends on what outcome you are after.
The older books tend to say wait until winter to remove branches so the sap isn't flowing but good paste seals the cuts properly and this is just the stubs anyway. New trees have 5-10 years work to go as well, so a drip of sap on the trunk now makes no difference really.
have fun with the BP's great tree to work with.
cheers Marcus
if they are stubs that you want to remove totally with concave cutters I never wait as the tree needs to heal over the cut anyway, so an active growing tree helps and you need to cut into live cambium to begin the proccess (they do totally heal over most cuts - even complete trunk chops roll over and bark up - there is a 7-8cm cut nearly gone on my bigger tree). A good proper sticky cut paste pressed on hard stops the sap dripping.
If you are carving them a bit into jin there are 2 ways to go - totally fresh wood is best if you prefer the peeling method of lifting fibres and pulling them back with pliers but dried out wood carves better with tools so it depends on what outcome you are after.
The older books tend to say wait until winter to remove branches so the sap isn't flowing but good paste seals the cuts properly and this is just the stubs anyway. New trees have 5-10 years work to go as well, so a drip of sap on the trunk now makes no difference really.
have fun with the BP's great tree to work with.
cheers Marcus
marcus watts- Member
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