Newly collected trees, when to remove extra branches/leaves?

Whenever I collect evergreen broad leaf trees, I try to prune it as hard as I can (or want/need) but leave low lying small branches (even suckers) with leaves to help the tree recover and develop new roots. I personally call these "nurse branches" They function differently from sacrificial branches - though could double duty as also.

Question, when is the best time to remove these nurse branches?

I am leaning after the new healthy leaves have hardened but not sure. I emphasized healthy because plants may throw shoots that wither or are very weak after collecting.

I've heard/read people say do not touch the tree for the first year and I do that on a case-by-case basis. Others advise to remove them right away and that they do more harm than good...robbing the tree the energy that otherwise would have been diverted to the proper branches. Obviously, you can see my current position/belief.

What's your take?

Though I am stubborn, I will listen and change my ways if convinced another method is better.

Thanks!

"Your method is the best" is the best answer to a stubborn

LOL. Smart guy!

Being a collector yourself...what do you do? Why? (only if you feel like answering).

I would think leaving some foliage closer to the top would help insure the flow of life to the top of the tree where you (presumably) want buds to form. Really all that is needed in terms of defoliating a newly collected tree is that the canopy not overtax the now smaller root system.
My answer to your question would also probably be to leave them until after the tree goes thru it's dormant period (you do have those in Texas, right??) and see if the tree still needs them. You seem to collect large stuff, so another year of growth on branches you intend to remove shouldn't really effect the tree in a negative way.

Lordy,

I would keep leaves on the main tree and at the tips if possible but as you noted, since I collect mostly big stock, most of the time, this is just not possible and I end up with a bald tree. I do what I described above only when I am left no choice (sorry for not mentioning that earlier).

The trees I am talking about are (as mentioned above) evergreen broad leaf. These trees don't normally go dormant as deciduous trees does (but do so to some degree) so waiting until then, makes sense. Thanks!!!

hi.
once a tree is actually growing again it is safe to asume it has formed some new feeder roots. These roots are going to provide sap flow to the branches pretty much wherever they are - so I try to minimise the 'not needed' and direct energy to where you want it - but first you need a crystal clear plan of how you want the tree to form - only then will you know what to remove and where to send the energy. Without a plan, or with a 'keep everything' approach all the collected material ends up looking like a small bush, often with bulges on the trunks and branches from all the emerging shoots.

study pictures of your trees, play with draw or photoshop if you like, and work from there.

cheers Marcus

I will remove all suckers straight away, and continue to that for the rest of the summer....as they take power away from the top.
I will need to see your tree Poink88, and know what kind of specie it is, if I should suggest more.

Kind regards Yvonne

marcus watts wrote:hi.
once a tree is actually growing again it is safe to asume it has formed some new feeder roots.
cheers Marcus

This is the key to look for. However it can take a few seasons worth of working with a particular species to determine the true extend of a trees vigor post collection from both above and below the soil, as some species can be quite misleading for a time. The good rule of thumb is to do nothing for the first year and allow the material to grow roots, thats playing it safe. As you become more and more familiar with different species you work with and/or collect you can push things harder, or refrain, based upon that experience.

For instance I learned MY lessons dealing with Azalea over the past few years and I'm now more confident in knowing when and how far I can push them. This knowledge only comes with experience.

My overall approach now is that the first year with any new material, collected or not, is for learning the plants horticulture (time always well spent), next year we do bonsai..

As for suckers I will sometimes leave them for a time if I collect a tree with few roots and no top as I did earlier this year, then as I see the tree rebound and grow i can remove them.
-Jay

Yvonne Graubaek wrote:I will remove all suckers straight away, and continue to that for the rest of the summer....as they take power away from the top.
I will need to see your tree Poink88, and know what kind of specie it is, if I should suggest more.

Kind regards Yvonne

Yvonne,

Here is a 7" base Yaupon Holly (Ilex vomitoria) I collected less than 2 weeks ago. I kept some lower branches with leaves (right side and back) since the "real tree" only have a few leaves left on it (around a dozen). It is budding now though.

Thanks Marcus and Jay!!!

Hi Poink88

It looks like very nice material, congratulations with the find.....

I have no experience with ilex, so I better stay out of this .

But there is one thing, I always prefer to do with a new collected tree...If I can se the tree in the material, will I cut it back to this vision, and not keep the rest, as it only will desturb the work, and maybe probably take the power away from what is going to be the main trunk, or trunks. Also will it take more years before you have the "finished" tree.

Kind regards Yvonne

Poink88 wrote:LOL. Smart guy!

Being a collector yourself...what do you do? Why? (only if you feel like answering).

My answer is short and simple Dario:
I dont prefer to do anything on a newly collected tree, except for removing unnecessary or energy-absorbing buds/branches. Then I would watch and feed the tree till next season.

Thanks for the input Guys! Much appreciated.

Yvonne, I know what you mean and I try to do that but there are branches there (left and center) that I am not sure yet if I need or not so I leave them in. I might end up removing one or both of them...but until I am sure of my design goal, they will just have to stay. Problem with pics is that you can't show the tree as it is rotated (and as I see it).

If you noticed, I already cut 2 big branches and de-barked (is that a word?) plus several smaller branches from the base so they won't compete with the rest.

Hi Poink88

You could use a nice vitual here....I am sure somebody out there, can give you a hint of were to cut back already now.....lets hope for help.

kind regards Yvonne

I think it would depend on the vigor of the tree, your experience level and the tendencies of the species itself. I think you dig up a mulberry and hit it with a blow torch and it would still root. Some plants are way more tender though, and need more time to recover.