Juniper air layering

We seem all to be in air layering mode this weather, so can I throw another AL question into the mix and ask what you'd consider to be the best time to air layer a Juniperus chinensis up here in west central Scotland. The bit I'm wanting to layer is a side branch with a diameter of about 1-1.5cm.

Many thanks. Back out to the heatwave now.

fionnghal wrote:
Back out to the heatwave now.

... You mean it's been over 15° Celsius for at least two days in a row?



I'd suggest a rather neutral free-draining mix, coarse sand (2-3 mm) and a little composted pine bark for instance. Since I Imagine the water you have there should be very pure, maybe a little cat litter (slightly basic, the pH is on the packets now so you can choose the most suitable brand) to balance the acidity of the composted pine bark.

I've air layered J c Blaauw several times succesfully using just chopped sphagnum moss in the bag. I think it is quite important to allow sunlight to warm the bag up as well as making certain that it never dries out. I'd think that the sooner you do it the better Fiona. Days are already growing shorter!

Kev Bailey wrote: I'd think that the sooner you do it the better Fiona. Days are already growing shorter!

That was kinda my thinking too and I've always gone for the moss-in-a-bag method. It's good to have confirmation.

Days growing shorter? Glass half empty? Nah. We're just grateful that the big yellow thing has appeared back in the sky this season between winter and autumn - in Scotland the word was removed from the dictionary so I've forgotten what it is.

Thanks guys as always.

Kev, as a matter of interest where did you keep the blaauws during the layering process - e.g. shade/light/temperature? I normally keep plants I'm air layering in dappled shade, but outdoors rather than in the glasshouse.

Also, how long roughly before you were able to sever the layer from the mother plant?

Remember I'm in North Wales and last year was a largely cloudy and overcast summer. That said, I never shade or protect any of my layers. I usually position the layer, if possible, so that it gets maximum sunlight. I don't protect any layers in a greenhouse, unless it is something like a trident (Acer buergerianum) that would fail if left outdoors and frozen in the winter. As long as I do them early enough in the season, most of mine have rooted sufficiently before winter. The only exception being Pines.

Last year I did Wisteria in 3 weeks, several 4" diameter Ulmus parvifolia in 8 weeks, and ground layered a 10" Oak - Quercus robur in 1 year. The latter was lifted and the old root system chainsawed off, this spring. It's looking healthy stiill.

Kev-
With that size area being sawed off is there a possibility of rot?