Pinus elliottii var. densa

Hi Dorothy,

Maby something like this?


Greetings from Poland,
Bartek Olejnik.

Twisted Trees wrote:Leave the bottom branhces...unless you want a tree that looks like every other tree that follows the rules.  I think they help the lowwer trunk.

I second that, I like it with the bottom branch.

I like AlainK's virtual, but it feels too typical, too much out of a book.
[ sans vouloir t'offencer Alain   ]

dorothy7774 wrote:
If any of you has had success growing lower branches on Slash pine, please post.

I'd be interested in that too
What's the length of your needles? How much have you been able to reduce it?
Could you give some "how-to prune pinus elliottii for dummies" quick tips?
You mentioned 3 decandling/year, but can you give more details when you do them and at what candle growth stages?

Sorry for all the questions, but so far you are the only one I can ask

Dorothy, what length have you reduced the needles to now? Have you found them to consistantly reduce (over the years) or is it a little random?

Thank you much for your visuals and your thoughts. I will keep working on this project.

Here is the deal with Slash pines:

The needle reduction is about a third of the initial length. The reduction is by no means constant, no. I adjust by cutting needles.

As I mentioned before, I decandle whenever I see some parts getting too strong. It's not a going-by-the-clock decandling. I have to already decandle in latest May in my area, otherwise the pine will take off. I keep watching the top in particular. If the slash pine is healthy ( color and quality of needles), I cut the needles ( scissors) twice a year, in spring and in late summer. This is to ensure airation, otherwise you will get a mildew problem ( around here). Fertilizer and water as much a spossible. Fishemulsion/ Liquid seaweed + iron (Maxicrop) seems to be very good for Slash pine. Not too much water and fertilizer after decandling, they do slow down for a while.

Again, growing Slash pine is like mowing grass : You go as you see fit.

Best,
Dorothy

Thanks Dorothy!
If I feel loss on my current main pine, I'll post something up for some help.
The others are just saplins, so I don't think that pruning is in order right now.

Xavier,

the guys down here say the J.B.P technique works on them, just has to be applied more frequently.
By them I mean our version of the Honduran/Caribbean pine, grown as a lumber tree.
The top is especially dominant.

You can cut the needled to 5 cm, but you will be cutting all year long to keep the look.

Why not just grow a J.B.P, from seed, within 5 to 10 years you will have 7.5 to 10 cm thick trunk and on Ausbonsai, one of the guys has a technique for growing cuttings from young seedlings, so you only need to get seed once. Every cutting is a new seedling and a new chance at another pine.

Soil is just 4-5mm pebbles [ silica ] and some compost. Porous earthenware pots or colanders.
Later.
Khaimraj

[img][/img]I think this demo

Thank you, tap pi lu. That is another way to go. However, I don't feel the trunk is long and slender enough to go as a literati. It's a pretty massive tree when you see it.

Best,
Dorothy

Peter Woosley wrote:Dorothy, what length have you reduced the needles to now? Have you found them to consistantly reduce (over the years) or is it a little random?

Peter,

I was way off with my estimate about the needle reduction. Here is a comparison with a real branch. Now, half of the needles are cut at this point, but I know how long the needles will finally elongate. The needles have definetly reduced about a third, and that's constant. I believe they get even much shorter that that. So I will keep posting the branch for a true evaluation.

Best,
Dorothy

Thanks Dorothy. Your results are pretty much identical to mine. I have been able to reduce mine to about a third of original size and seems to be stuck around that length. I am hoping that once mine gets better ramification it will reduce further, time will tell i guess. All the best.