Pinus elliottii var. densa
+11
sunip
Xavier de Lapeyre
ogi uyehara
Khaimraj Seepersad
abcd
-Daniel-
Peter Woosley
Billy M. Rhodes
Todd Ellis
Zach Smith
dorothy7774
15 posters
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Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
Ok Dorothy,
Will see about getting an image of my pine to this section of the forum.
AND thank you.
Khaimraj
First the excuses -
[1] Can't see the image clearly
[2] This is a design, based on a flat image.
I saw an ancient tree, slowly bending down to eventually rest on the ground, perhaps near a small river, but in a sheltered valley.
The attempt -
[1] Increased the negative spaces.
[2] Raised roots where needed
[3] Suggested some expansion
[4] Perhaps a classic unglazed oval, brown reddish?
[5] Jin and back branch removal at the base.
Will see about getting an image of my pine to this section of the forum.
AND thank you.
Khaimraj
First the excuses -
[1] Can't see the image clearly
[2] This is a design, based on a flat image.
I saw an ancient tree, slowly bending down to eventually rest on the ground, perhaps near a small river, but in a sheltered valley.
The attempt -
[1] Increased the negative spaces.
[2] Raised roots where needed
[3] Suggested some expansion
[4] Perhaps a classic unglazed oval, brown reddish?
[5] Jin and back branch removal at the base.
Khaimraj Seepersad- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
Thank you for the drawing, Khaimraj. Certainly an additional way to go.
-Dorothy
-Dorothy
dorothy7774- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
Hello Dorothy,
When i look at the tree it is all about the decision if you want to see that thick branch as a branch or as a second trunk.
Does he want to be guy wired down?
Sunip
When i look at the tree it is all about the decision if you want to see that thick branch as a branch or as a second trunk.
Does he want to be guy wired down?
Sunip
sunip- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
sunip wrote:Hello Dorothy,
When i look at the tree it is all about the decision if you want to see that thick branch as a branch or as a second trunk.
Does he want to be guy wired down?
Sunip
Hi sunip, I did not notice your post, sorry. The big branch will have to go and be replaced by another branch growing nearby. It is very thick, so I am starting the process to wean it off.
Here are the uptates on the Slash pine. The bottom branch has exploded with growth and diameter! Usually a Slash pine will try to abort the low branch(es) in order to grow tall. I have been constantly keeping the top weaker this year and that is what I got, a nicely thickening low branch and a very healthy tree! I am quite surprised about the low branch and believe I have found a way to nurture lower branches of Slash pines to not only catch up with the tree, but to also keep the entire vigor of the tree going.
If any of you has had success growing lower branches on Slash pine, please post. Slash pines are readily accessible in Florida and we should be able to grow more Slash pine bonsai! Fortunately I did not discard of some prebonsai candidates located in our backyard. I never thought I could get those low branches to grow like that.
dorothy7774- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
Yes I'm seeing the images now.
Only the images in thread #131419 are still broken in my browser.
https://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/t12073p15-pinus-elliottii-var-densa#131419
Only the images in thread #131419 are still broken in my browser.
https://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/t12073p15-pinus-elliottii-var-densa#131419
Xavier de Lapeyre- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
Leave the bottom branhces...unless you want a tree that looks like every other tree that follows the rules. I think they help the lowwer trunk.
Twisted Trees- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
I second that, I like it with the bottom branch.Twisted Trees wrote:Leave the bottom branhces...unless you want a tree that looks like every other tree that follows the rules. I think they help the lowwer trunk.
I like AlainK's virtual, but it feels too typical, too much out of a book.
[ sans vouloir t'offencer Alain ]
I'd be interested in that toodorothy7774 wrote:
If any of you has had success growing lower branches on Slash pine, please post.
What's the length of your needles? How much have you been able to reduce it?
Could you give some "how-to prune pinus elliottii for dummies" quick tips?
You mentioned 3 decandling/year, but can you give more details when you do them and at what candle growth stages?
Sorry for all the questions, but so far you are the only one I can ask
Xavier de Lapeyre- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
Dorothy, what length have you reduced the needles to now? Have you found them to consistantly reduce (over the years) or is it a little random?
Peter Woosley- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
Thank you much for your visuals and your thoughts. I will keep working on this project.
Here is the deal with Slash pines:
The needle reduction is about a third of the initial length. The reduction is by no means constant, no. I adjust by cutting needles.
As I mentioned before, I decandle whenever I see some parts getting too strong. It's not a going-by-the-clock decandling. I have to already decandle in latest May in my area, otherwise the pine will take off. I keep watching the top in particular. If the slash pine is healthy ( color and quality of needles), I cut the needles ( scissors) twice a year, in spring and in late summer. This is to ensure airation, otherwise you will get a mildew problem ( around here). Fertilizer and water as much a spossible. Fishemulsion/ Liquid seaweed + iron (Maxicrop) seems to be very good for Slash pine. Not too much water and fertilizer after decandling, they do slow down for a while.
Again, growing Slash pine is like mowing grass : You go as you see fit.
Best,
Dorothy
Here is the deal with Slash pines:
The needle reduction is about a third of the initial length. The reduction is by no means constant, no. I adjust by cutting needles.
As I mentioned before, I decandle whenever I see some parts getting too strong. It's not a going-by-the-clock decandling. I have to already decandle in latest May in my area, otherwise the pine will take off. I keep watching the top in particular. If the slash pine is healthy ( color and quality of needles), I cut the needles ( scissors) twice a year, in spring and in late summer. This is to ensure airation, otherwise you will get a mildew problem ( around here). Fertilizer and water as much a spossible. Fishemulsion/ Liquid seaweed + iron (Maxicrop) seems to be very good for Slash pine. Not too much water and fertilizer after decandling, they do slow down for a while.
Again, growing Slash pine is like mowing grass : You go as you see fit.
Best,
Dorothy
dorothy7774- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
Thanks Dorothy!
If I feel loss on my current main pine, I'll post something up for some help.
The others are just saplins, so I don't think that pruning is in order right now.
If I feel loss on my current main pine, I'll post something up for some help.
The others are just saplins, so I don't think that pruning is in order right now.
Xavier de Lapeyre- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
Xavier,
the guys down here say the J.B.P technique works on them, just has to be applied more frequently.
By them I mean our version of the Honduran/Caribbean pine, grown as a lumber tree.
The top is especially dominant.
You can cut the needled to 5 cm, but you will be cutting all year long to keep the look.
Why not just grow a J.B.P, from seed, within 5 to 10 years you will have 7.5 to 10 cm thick trunk and on Ausbonsai, one of the guys has a technique for growing cuttings from young seedlings, so you only need to get seed once. Every cutting is a new seedling and a new chance at another pine.
Soil is just 4-5mm pebbles [ silica ] and some compost. Porous earthenware pots or colanders.
Later.
Khaimraj
the guys down here say the J.B.P technique works on them, just has to be applied more frequently.
By them I mean our version of the Honduran/Caribbean pine, grown as a lumber tree.
The top is especially dominant.
You can cut the needled to 5 cm, but you will be cutting all year long to keep the look.
Why not just grow a J.B.P, from seed, within 5 to 10 years you will have 7.5 to 10 cm thick trunk and on Ausbonsai, one of the guys has a technique for growing cuttings from young seedlings, so you only need to get seed once. Every cutting is a new seedling and a new chance at another pine.
Soil is just 4-5mm pebbles [ silica ] and some compost. Porous earthenware pots or colanders.
Later.
Khaimraj
Khaimraj Seepersad- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
Thank you, tap pi lu. That is another way to go. However, I don't feel the trunk is long and slender enough to go as a literati. It's a pretty massive tree when you see it.
Best,
Dorothy
Best,
Dorothy
dorothy7774- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
Peter,Peter Woosley wrote:Dorothy, what length have you reduced the needles to now? Have you found them to consistantly reduce (over the years) or is it a little random?
I was way off with my estimate about the needle reduction. Here is a comparison with a real branch. Now, half of the needles are cut at this point, but I know how long the needles will finally elongate. The needles have definetly reduced about a third, and that's constant. I believe they get even much shorter that that. So I will keep posting the branch for a true evaluation.
Best,
Dorothy
dorothy7774- Member
Re: Pinus elliottii var. densa
Thanks Dorothy. Your results are pretty much identical to mine. I have been able to reduce mine to about a third of original size and seems to be stuck around that length. I am hoping that once mine gets better ramification it will reduce further, time will tell i guess. All the best.
Peter Woosley- Member
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