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Sakaki / Euryops Pectinatus (Broom Style - Shohin)

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CraftyTanuki
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Post  Sakaki Thu Apr 19, 2012 11:13 pm

I bought this yellow daisy 2-3 years ago, and did not make any special treatment, prunning or styling on it during this time.
This winter I decided to work on it.
This photo was taken at the end of February:

Sakaki / Euryops Pectinatus (Broom Style - Shohin) Papaty10

I prunned it at the beginning of this March:

Sakaki / Euryops Pectinatus (Broom Style - Shohin) Papaty11

Sakaki / Euryops Pectinatus (Broom Style - Shohin) Papaty12


It just started to sprout as of April 11th, 2012:

Sakaki / Euryops Pectinatus (Broom Style - Shohin) Papaty13

Sakaki / Euryops Pectinatus (Broom Style - Shohin) Papaty14

(It's approx. 24-25 cm tall.)


Thanks in advance for your criticisms & comments
Taner Tuncer
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Post  Orion Mon Apr 23, 2012 3:26 am

Interesting species, I have absolutely no knowledge of it. What can you tell us about the species and how well do the braches ramify?
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Post  Sakaki Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:04 am

Hi Orion,

You can see this plant everywhere in my city as it easily tolerates high temperature, high moisture and direct sunlight.
It sprouts from the beginning of spring or late winter till next autumn. Its height may reach 1 meter in a short time if you dont prune it. (You can see flowers during 6-7 months of the year).
If you prune it light it gives you 2-3 sprouts just a few mm back from cut point. It also tolerates prunning back hard, and in this case you can obtain more than 3 sprouts in a short time. (I even experienced 7 sprouts around a cut-point in a time).
I donot recommend prunning it after September, because you may lose entire branch! (I experienced it).
If you allow it to flower, you will have long and thin plant with many branches and flowers. If you prune it frequently (sometimes hard) and dont let it to flower, then the trunk thickens very fast and easily (you can not believe your eyes).
It likes well-drained soils, and you should allow soil to become dry between waterings. If you water it excessively, it may not die but you can observe that the trunk becomes greenish brown due to algaes.
One more important thing: literature says about this plant that lifetime of it is not so long. However I saw many of them lived more than 25 - 30 years in my city. And considering that you can obtain a bonsai from it in a short time, this does not sound so bad.
Mine is about 3 years old, and I plan to put it (as a shohin) in a nice pot next year.
Conclusion: It tolerates high temperature, high moisture, direct sunlight (all day), prunning back hard (not after September till the end of Winter). It is hard to kill it unless you left in under frozen temperatures.
Please note that I decided to work on it as it is very suitable for my region and climate. I do not think that it is suitable for cold climates.
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Post  Orion Mon Apr 23, 2012 12:25 pm

Thank you for the detailed explanation. Keep us posted on the progress

Nice job.
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Post  CraftyTanuki Mon Apr 23, 2012 12:36 pm

Wow iv seen this sp. quiet a few times in nurseries and would of never thought someone could tweak it like you have, way to go. Keep us updated.
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Post  Sakaki Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:44 pm

CraftyTanuki wrote:Wow iv seen this sp. quiet a few times in nurseries and would of never thought someone could tweak it like you have, way to go. Keep us updated.

Thank you Crafty!
If you see this sp. again you should buy one because it is also suitable for your region I think Smile

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Post  Andre Beaurain Thu May 03, 2012 1:42 pm

Hallo Taner

The yellow marguerite is from here where I live, Western Cape. South Africa its part the Fynbos (Cape Foral Kingdom) there is about 30 spp. There is only one that grows up to Arabia.
The resin was used for gum or mastic in years gone by.
This one is the neatest growers, and I use it alot in landscaping, I love it, there is nothing that beats the bright yellow.
I have never heard of a plant that that lived for 25 years, I think that is impossible, they probably do replacement plantings. But that is not to say that it wont get that age in bonsai, I for one, dont believe it.
Fynbos is very very tricky. clown

Andre Beaurain
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Post  akhater Thu May 03, 2012 9:55 pm

Hello Sakaki,


I am very interested in this thread because I have recently bought nursery stock and hoping to train them.

Can you share a bit more about repotting ?? can roots be pruned drastically ? mine are still in nursery pots.

any tips for ramification ?

I might create a post for mine so I can get your advise Wink


Salamat

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Post  Sakaki Fri May 04, 2012 4:06 pm

Hi Andre,

Although this is my first experience with this sp. as bonsai, I know well about it.
If I have time I will visit the location where I saw that old marguerite (approx. 26 years old) to take a photo for you. Smile
But of course, this is not my base or reason for trying bonsai with this sp., I just like it as shohin Smile


Hi akhater,

As I mentioned in my first post I bought it 2-3 years ago, and just started to style it this year with some simple prunnings. I plan to make some root prunnings and to repot it to a bonsai pot next year.
However this sp. has quite strong root system, so I think there is no need to doubt much about root prunning.
Regarding ramification; please see my post above (that I wrote for Orion on 23 Apr 2012).

NOTE: I used trichoderma last year, and its roots now try to go out of pot Smile

Thanks
Taner
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Post  Andre Beaurain Mon May 07, 2012 7:27 am

Dear Taner

Yes please, proof me wrong,
those Euryops must be very gnarld by now, would love to see a photo.

What,ve done to the marguerite is fantastic, would love to see progress in the future.

I guess if they can bonsai chrysantemum, you surly can bonsai Euryops.
I wonder how old those Chrysantemums get, does anybody know?
Andre Beaurain
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Post  my nellie Mon May 07, 2012 12:36 pm

Sakaki wrote: ... ... NOTE: I used trichoderma last year, and its roots now try to go out of pot Smile
Hi, Taner!
So, you are sure that mycorrhiza is the cause for this root growth...?
I have been using mycorrhizal funghi to almost all my pro-bonsai trees when re-potting and I am not quite sure that it had any effect...
my nellie
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Post  Sakaki Mon May 07, 2012 11:05 pm

Dear Andre,

Sorry for my late reply, I am quite busy nowadays Sad
At least you will be able to watch survival of mine Smile

Dear Alexandra,

Here are some sample images for you; you can easily see what mycorrhiza & trichoderma do Smile

Sakaki / Euryops Pectinatus (Broom Style - Shohin) Tricod10

Sakaki / Euryops Pectinatus (Broom Style - Shohin) Tricod11


Check the best before date printed on your package/container of mycorrhiza/trichoderma.

Taner
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Post  my nellie Tue May 08, 2012 8:45 am

Taner, thanks.
May I ask another question though...
I know that the kind of mycorrhizal funghi to be used depends on species, I mean that pines have their own mycorrhiza, junipers theirs, fagus theirs and so on...
Do you check at first what is the appropriate fungus for each specific tree and then you search and buy this one to use on that tree? Or you use any of the commercial products (assortment of funghi) ready available on the market?
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Post  Sakaki Tue May 08, 2012 9:18 am

Dear Alexandra

No, I dont use different brands for each sp.
The brand (I cant remember the name of it) that I use includes many different mycorrhizal and trichoderma fungis in one pack.
I am in my office now, I will try to check and let you know about these fungis included in the pack this evening when I arrive at home.
By the way, I think that trichoderma fungis (not mycorrhizal) have more important role for developing such capillar roots, at least I know so.
As I know mycorrhizal fungis help roots to benefit more from a given nutrition, while trichoderma increases capillar roots.
Please note that I am not expert on this issue, I just show you my experience.
May be your fungi pack has expired or it does not include any trichoderma fungi.

Taner
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Post  luc tran Tue May 08, 2012 5:16 pm

So do you treat you tree year round with the products or only at repot? Do you combine this regiment with fertilizers?

Luc

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Post  Sakaki Wed May 09, 2012 10:29 am

luc tran wrote:So do you treat you tree year round with the products or only at repot? Do you combine this regiment with fertilizers?

Luc

Hi Luc,

Not around the year, I used for once for each of my plants.
But if I dont see a significant root development, I will use again in next repotting.
I did learn through my researches through web that once the fungis are adhered to the roots they live together with the tree unless you wash out all the soils from roots during repotting.
And that sounds like it is useful to treat trees again with these fungis at each repotting.
As I said in my previous post, I am still experiencing on it. So, please do not take my experience as reference for this issue/application at this point Smile
However, feel free to try yourself. These fungis are not harmful to trees as I know!

Thank you
Taner
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Post  my nellie Wed May 09, 2012 12:56 pm

Sakaki wrote: ... ... These fungis are not harmful to trees as I know!
Yes, of course Taner! On the contrary, plants benefit from this symbiosis.
Taner, would you recommend buying online or rather visiting an appropriate shop (for the reason of checking the manufacturing dates)?
my nellie
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Post  Sakaki Wed May 09, 2012 4:09 pm

my nellie wrote:
Sakaki wrote: ... ... These fungis are not harmful to trees as I know!
Yes, of course Taner! On the contrary, plants benefit from this symbiosis.
Taner, would you recommend buying online or rather visiting an appropriate shop (for the reason of checking the manufacturing dates)?


Dear Alexandra

I strongly recommend to visit a shop (if possible) because there are more other issues that you should check during shopping:
1) Some cheap brands include only a few fungis, for example only Glomus or pisolithus fungis, etc. Some others include many glomus fungis plus rhizopogons, pisolithus, tricodermas, etc.. (All in one packs).
2) Yes, you should check if there is a mfg. date on pack. Some brands do not have such mfg. or expiry date etc. info on the packs.
3) Another important factor is the density/population of fungis within a unit volume (prop. or cfu/g rates).
If such information are available online by a reliable supplier/dealer, you can prefer online shopping also!
I would like to emphasize again that: although use of these fungis were suggested to me by one of my friends in a local bonsai club, I buy, handle & use these fungis in accordance with the information that I gathered through my searches in web. And I am currently experiencing it. That's to say: the information I gave you here are not scientific or based on a proven experience of an expert... just my and my friend's experience Smile
I hope I could help you.

Taner
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Post  my nellie Thu May 10, 2012 8:38 am

Thanks, Taner!
Yes, you have been very helpful especially regarding the differentiation of trichoderma vs mycorrhizal funghi.
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Post  Sakaki Thu May 10, 2012 3:16 pm

my nellie wrote:Thanks, Taner!
Yes, you have been very helpful especially regarding the differentiation of trichoderma vs mycorrhizal funghi.

Happy to hear that!

Taner
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