Hinoki Shohin

At the Noelanders there whas one hinoki shohin and one mame Seha Hinoki at show.
My question is how you get (with such a trunk diameter in mind) the green needles so close by?
Is this achieved by grafting or just by growing and cutting of some leader branches?
I have to light out mine constantly to prevend die back near the trunk.
regards, Sunip

In case you might think i answered my own question.
Let me ask differently.
Considering the time a trunk like that has to grow,
is it by way of constant picking of the needles possible to remain with such small branches in relation to the trunk,
Given the fact that Chamaecypharis does not bud back
and in the shade the inner parts merciless die back do they graft branches?
Anyway i am in great admiration for this result.
regards, Sunip

Hi Sunip

I think you partly answered the question My guess is that many (if not all) of those branches are grafted. Pinching regularly to add sun on inner branches is essential too. Eventually after a long time, new branches may need to be grafted again, because the branch foliage will end up be too far away from the trunk one day?

Regards
Morten

Thanks Morten,
So my guess is justified, after that many years of trunk growth, it is not that probable you be left with such branches.
But then i thought, grafting such hinoki sort as Chamaecypharis lawsonia
or Chamaecypharis obtusa Nana Gracilis and others,
is almost impossible.
Am i wrong, is it for the layman manageable?
regards, Sunip

Hi Sunip

I am convinced that the Chamaecypharis is somewhat difficult to graft without good skills and practise. The thin layers of cambium is easily damaged and dries out. Need some practise I guess on invaluable trees before trying on good bonsai material at least.

Regards
Morten

Thanks for the reply Morten.
I do not have any experience with branch grafting on Hinoki.
I only tried to graft bark on to two hinoki's a few years ago.
I red about this technique, by removing of a branch you leave a piece of the bark of the branch attached to the trunk.
When the cutting place is flattend you bend the bark over it and fix the whole.
But as you mentioned that cambium layer is quit thin and it did not work.
(On deciduous trees this technique will have more chance to succeed i think)
In the main time the wounds are healing naturally.
Regards, Sunip

Examples





And some Chokan Works. No Grafting needed.
Regards
Jose Acuña

Jose Acuña wrote:Examples





And some Chokan Works. No Grafting needed.
Regards
Jose Acuña

The proof is in the pudding. Thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with the species as I can't grow them in Florida. USA.

Jose

Thanks for inspiring photos. Is it not necessary on the shohin either? Will they bud back sufficiently with enough light and air to the inner parts, to keep them the same size over time?

Best regards
Morten

morten albek wrote:Jose

Is it not necessary on the shohin either? Will they bud back sufficiently with enough light and air to the inner parts, to keep them the same size over time?

Hi Morten;
I have seen this hinoki only for shohin size.
As I am sure you know, if you keep any tree always like going to a exhibition, the green will not keep near to the trunk. You have to go back and “restart” with branches from time to time.
Regards
Jose

Jose Acuña wrote:

morten albek wrote:Jose

Is it not necessary on the shohin either? Will they bud back sufficiently with enough light and air to the inner parts, to keep them the same size over time?

Hi Morten;
I have seen this hinoki only for shohin size.
As I am sure you know, if you keep any tree always like going to a exhibition, the green will not keep near to the trunk. You have to go back and “restart” with branches from time to time.
Regards
Jose

Thanks Jose. I may ask a bit preciser. My concern is, if it is possible get this specie to bud back on branches without growth behind that point. That be the very inner branches on this specie, in order to reproduce growth without the need of grafting new branches. I hope this is understandable.

Best regards
Morten

Jose,

Can you tell us the name of this particular dwarf hinoki?

R

Hi Morten;
Yes I understand.
If you cut back, always keeping green in the branch, the tree will grow back that point . Probably it will help if you do it when the tree it is at a training pot.
Sorry for my English . I try to do my best.
Regards
Jose

Russell Coker wrote:Jose,

Can you tell us the name of this particular dwarf hinoki?

R

SeKka Hinoki

Regards
Jose Acuña

Thanks, and you English is fine!

R

[quote="Jose Acuña"]

morten albek wrote:Jose

Is it not necessary on the shohin either? Will they bud back sufficiently with enough light and air to the inner parts, to keep them the same size over time?

Hi Morten;
I have seen this hinoki only for shohin size.
As I am sure you know, if you keep any tree always like going to a exhibition, the green will not keep near to the trunk. You have to go back and “restart” with branches from time to time.
Regards
Jose

Hy Jose,
What do you mean with "restart with branches from time to time" ? Grafting?
BTW I was more pointing out in my initially question to the other hinoki in the stand next to it at the Noelanders
what is an other kind of hinoki i think.
thanks and regards, Sunip

Jose Acuña wrote:Hi Morten;
Yes I understand.
If you cut back, always keeping green in the branch, the tree will grow back that point . Probably it will help if you do it when the tree it is at a training pot.
Sorry for my English . I try to do my best.
Regards
Jose

Your English is fine. And thank you.

Regards
Morten

sunip wrote:What do you mean with "restart with branches from time to time" ? Grafting?

I mean to cut, and leave only the green closer to the trunk. If you do that and the tree is healthy and strong. You will get new branches in this point.
Regards
Jose Acuña

Hy Jose,
Thank you for your response.
Regards, Sunip