Repotting an olive

I've been thinking this week of repotting my olive from it's container to a bigger one.
Is it too late to repot?

Nemphis,

it would help if you left a general direction to where you lived or a zone.

There is an area for an address under your avatar marked - Location.
Later.
Khaimraj

* Nemphis is Memphis ?

Khaimraj Seepersad wrote:Nemphis,

it would help if you left a general direction to where you lived or a zone.

There is an area for an address under your avatar marked - Location.
Later.
Khaimraj

* Nemphis is Memphis ?

Oh I forgot that.
I'm living in Romania in the North-West part of the country,here more exactly.Right now is quite a hot weather but it will soon get cold.

* Nemphis is a nickname I invented when I was younger for gaming,and I keep using it.

Nemphis,

the direction you gave has Norton security saying that the Site is suspect and that you may be attempting, is it? to Phish or gather information on the unsuspecting.

Please be careful, with what you leave behind..
Later.
Khaimraj

Khaimraj Seepersad wrote:Nemphis,

the direction you gave has Norton security saying that the Site is suspect and that you may be attempting, is it? to Phish or gather information on the unsuspecting.

Please be careful, with what you leave behind..
Later.
Khaimraj

I just left the link to Google Maps.
Well if it doesn't work you can search in Google Maps for Satu Mare to get a more precise location.

Hello Nemphis,
No problem.
Probably Norton on speed.
[ my very brief life as a gamer had me as the Valar [ all of them ]

I grow an olive, Olea Africana, but this is a tropical climate, and I repot January 2nd, as the rains are almost gone.
This gives the trees enough time to bind up the soil in the pot before the rains return in April/May or June.

I also fertilize one month after repotting, and do so until June/July, then the added moisture in the air will keep the trees going, and because they are so well rooted the heavy rain cannot affect them in the pot.

We grow cooler from October until February/March and then grow warmer [ from 30 deg.c down to 25 by day [to a low 19 deg.c at night] and back op to 30 deg.c ]
33 deg.C is a max for say an hour, the island is fairly breezy.

If you can get Alexandra's -mynellie- [ Greece] attention, perhaps she can be more helpful.
Later.
Khaimraj

Mine is an Olea Europea which I dug up myself last summer in Portugal.
About the weather,now being at the end of August(summer) the weather is starting to change and get a bit colder.I keep my olive indoor during the cold winter as it can't survive 1 feet of snow,during the summer I keep him outdoor.
I don't really want to disturb the rootball,it's just that when I potted it,I put it into a small pot,too small,and now I want to change it with a bigger one.

George (N.)

You are zone 5 and I think it is colder than most Olives can take...how are you protecting it during winter? (location, light, humidity, etc.)

If you are just up potting (moving to bigger pot) I would think it is okay...just minimize disturbance and avoid any root damage. That said, it is better if you can wait until spring.

Poink88 wrote:You are zone 5 and I think it is colder than most Olives can take...how are you protecting it during winter? (location, light, humidity, etc.)

If you are just up potting (moving to bigger pot) I would think it is okay...just minimize disturbance and avoid any root damage. That said, it is better if you can wait until spring.

During winter I keep it inside at room's temperature 22 degrees C.The time between watering is about 2 days(twice a day during summer) and I keep him on the Southest side of the house close to the window where all the winter light can get to him.

Nemphis,

you can probably get away with 2.5 cm of fresh soil all around the sides and underneath, and just keep it moist as you have been doing.

However, have you checked to make sure that the tree is really potbound?

I can carefully lift my trees out of their pots after 6 months of growing, and add just a little more soil.

I am not suggesting you do the above - okay - but if the tree is not potbound, it should be safe over autumn and winter and early spring, when I believe you can safely add more soil, and if truly potbound, a light root pruning and re-potting.
Try not to be too rushed into re-potting or finding a bonsai pot, it is better to learn how to keep the tree healthy, which can take 3 to 5 years.

If you have been growing Bonsai for a long time say at 10 years or so and have more than enough experience, please excuse my accidentally insulting your intelligence.
Later.
Khaimraj

I would agree that unless there is some sort of emergency to repot at this time, to wait till the weather is warm again. Olives don't want to be kept moist when it's cold, so having a smaller pot as opposed to too much volume will actually help it stay drier. I know your question was if you could... You can, just take care it doesn't stay too wet during the winter. I've always understood that its best to work this species when the weather is hot. And I do know that they are ok with being a bit root bound.
Greetings!

Khaimraj,

My experience is just a bit more than that of a beginner as I've been already having bonsai trees for 1 year and 2 months or something like that.
How can I check if the tree is potbound? In 4 september it'll be making one year in the same pot.The new pot,the bigger one isn't so much bigger,just with some inches,1 or 2.The pot in which it is now is quite small and I'd like to pot him into a bigger one to give it a bit more space for growing.