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Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper)

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Garykk
jrodriguez
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Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Empty Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper)

Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:13 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Ji10

Cultivated Taiwan Juniper. The tree is 30 to 40 years old. With the red chalk, San Shui (Water line) is marked. White chalk is used to delimit the shari.
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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:17 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Jii10
With F4 type burin, we scrape the living bark
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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:19 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Jiii10
He uses the F4 type burin to further remove the bark and prepare the wood for three dimensional carving. Note the cylindrical unweathered wood, typical of young trees.
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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:20 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Jiv10
With the F3 burin, the water line is further rectified.
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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:23 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Jv10
With a spoon burin, he begins to transform the cylndrical shari into a three dimensional-weathered old looking tree.
Note: Always use gloves while perfoming this operation. Ensure safety first!!!
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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:26 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Jvi10
Shari after work. Note that the left jin and the upper part of the right shari is too cylindrical and will require further carving.
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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:29 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Jvii10
With hook burin, he begins to shape the dull looking shari.


Last edited by jrodriguez on Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:43 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:30 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Jviii10
The right jin requires shaping as well. As is, it does not give the impression of antiquity.
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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:32 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Jx10
With a spherical concave cutter, he begins to remove the fiber.
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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:33 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Jxii10
By using the Mighty Sword 101, mechanical Sidiao is performed.
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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:35 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Jxiii10
With an electric drill, texture is added to the jin.
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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:36 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Jxiv10
The appearance of the jin after performing manual and mechanical Sidiao.
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Post  Garykk Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:44 pm

Very good, I don't think I would have the nerve to strip so much bark but it is hard to dispute the final presentation. I guess I will have 35 years to think about it before the knife is in my hand.
__gary


Last edited by Garykk on Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:50 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:47 pm

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Jxv15
After wiring and repositioning.

Note that no single green is positioned in front of the shari.

You can see more at www.sidiao.com .
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Post  DaveP Tue Jun 30, 2009 3:42 pm

AbsoLUTEly stunning stuff. I really love seeing him at work! A particularly heart-felt "thank you!" for pointing out which of the burins he's using at various stages!

Thank you! Smile
-d

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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 3:59 pm

Dave,

Spoon burins, like a shovel, are used for creating deep crevices within the shari. Hook burins are used to pull the fiber, bit by bit. On the other hand, F3 and F4 burins (Scrape burins) are used to peel the bark off the trees.

Kind Regards,
Jose Luis
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Post  DaveP Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:00 pm

jrodriguez wrote:Dave,

Spoon burins, like a shovel, are used for creating deep crevices within the shari. Hook burins are used to pull the fiber, bit by bit. On the other hand, F3 and F4 burins (Scrape burins) are used to peel the bark off the trees.

Kind Regards,
Jose Luis

Hi Jose Luis,

I own a complete set of both hook and spoon burins - and the F3/F4 scrapers, along with the very, very small spoon (it's nearly a point rather than a spoon). All were ordered directly from Cheng Cheng Kung a couple years ago. I was never positive exactly which size he was using in various photos - which you've cleared up quite nicely! I've purchased similarly designed tools from other vendors but none come close to the quality of the ones offered by Cheng Cheng Kung.

Kindest,
-d

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Post  jrodriguez Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:07 pm

Dave,

The sharp point burin you mention is for further rectifying the division between the shari and the live vein in narrow portions of the tree. It can also be used to add detail to the shari.

Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Point10
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Post  DaveP Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:07 pm

jrodriguez wrote:Dave,

The sharp point burin you mention is for further rectifying the division between the shari and the live vein in narrow portions of the tree. It can also be used to add detail to the shari.

I've found it to also be quite handy when working with shohin and used as a push-type (almost spoon) burin. Very Happy What you point out is a great use of it! Better than the F4, which is quite good itself, being very pointed and all. Smile


Last edited by DaveP on Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:37 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : changed F3 type to F4, which is the correct one.)

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Post  Rob Kempinski Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:44 pm

The most impressive part of this post is the Junipers are not collected yamadori but nursery grown. Would be nice to get such material in the USA. alien
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Post  Fabianoscosta Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:58 pm

Really impressive work of the dead wood of Mr. Cheng Cheng Kung, in addition to his wonderful gift and professional competence, show us that nothing like the right tool for each step of work.
Thanks for sharing,
Regards,
Fabiano

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Cheng Cheng Kung's Bonsai School (Taiwan Juniper) Empty BUT?????

Post  nitnitsuj Wed Jul 01, 2009 1:20 am

how did you leave the bark so smooth ???????????

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Post  DaveP Wed Jul 01, 2009 1:28 am

nitnitsuj wrote:how did you leave the bark so smooth ???????????

The bark is smooth due to the removal of the flakes. This can be done with the careful use of a brass brush to remove the outer layer, and a toothbrush to remove the next layer, leaving the newest layer of bark untouched.

If you're asking about the deadwood, that's smooth by the use of the si-diao technique, also known as "silk carving", where the wood fibers are lifted in very small groups and peeled away from the tree in long strips.

Kindest~
-d

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