chinese quince anyone knows how to have back buds?

Hello here's a chinese quince i've had for four years.

He's in good health but, it's hard for me to have back buds.

What i did in the apst was to cutt the tip of the branches in winter, but when he buds, it's again on the tip of branches, making new long tips and almost nothing else.

Anyone has another method?

Try downloading this PDF

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CEIQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.internationalbonsai.com%2Ffiles%2F1708315%2Fuploaded%2Fflowering_quince_article.pdf&ei=0qYyT4ibHKThsQLhhaH-Bg&usg=AFQjCNEsAP8Z7Duj8TleNoeA1lKJ75YyGA&sig2=ZXn1iZB-XWbb6f27HndHUw

Also try these links:
http://www.absolutebonsai.com/quince_bonsai
http://www.bonsai4me.com/SpeciesGuide/Chaenomeles.html

"Pruning and wiring: Fruiting and flowering can sap the plant's energy dramatically, so it is wise to limit the amount by picking off developing fruit and flower buds, especially in young bonsai. Flowering quince likes to sucker from the roots. Suckers should be removed if a thich trunk is desired; however, thick trunks can be difficult to achieve, especially in some popular C. japonica cultivars such as 'Chojubai.' These plants are most often grown in clump style. Some species may need to be cut back hard to encourage branch formation. New shoots should be cut back to 1-2 leaves after 5-7 leaves have formed, which may be as often as every two weeks in a vigorous plant. Chaenomeles can be wired from spring through the end of summer, leaving the wire on for up to four months, and can be repeated yearly."

Prune end buds on ALL branches.

What an absolutely beautiful tree!
-Jay

Poink88 wrote:Try downloading this PDF

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CEIQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.internationalbonsai.com%2Ffiles%2F1708315%2Fuploaded%2Fflowering_quince_article.pdf&ei=0qYyT4ibHKThsQLhhaH-Bg&usg=AFQjCNEsAP8Z7Duj8TleNoeA1lKJ75YyGA&sig2=ZXn1iZB-XWbb6f27HndHUw

Also try these links:
http://www.absolutebonsai.com/quince_bonsai
http://www.bonsai4me.com/SpeciesGuide/Chaenomeles.html

"Pruning and wiring: Fruiting and flowering can sap the plant's energy dramatically, so it is wise to limit the amount by picking off developing fruit and flower buds, especially in young bonsai. Flowering quince likes to sucker from the roots. Suckers should be removed if a thich trunk is desired; however, thick trunks can be difficult to achieve, especially in some popular C. japonica cultivars such as 'Chojubai.' These plants are most often grown in clump style. Some species may need to be cut back hard to encourage branch formation. New shoots should be cut back to 1-2 leaves after 5-7 leaves have formed, which may be as often as every two weeks in a vigorous plant. Chaenomeles can be wired from spring through the end of summer, leaving the wire on for up to four months, and can be repeated yearly."

pseduocydonia sinensis would be a better search.
Wood

Hello thanks for your answers.

Poink88--your links are for japanese quince and mine is a chines quince (pseudocydonia sinensis)

But this paragraph is very interesting, is it for chinese quince?
"Pruning and wiring: Fruiting and flowering can sap the plant's energy dramatically, so it is wise to limit the amount by picking off developing fruit and flower buds, especially in young bonsai. Flowering quince likes to sucker from the roots. Suckers should be removed if a thich trunk is desired; however, thick trunks can be difficult to achieve, especially in some popular C. japonica cultivars such as 'Chojubai.' These plants are most often grown in clump style. Some species may need to be cut back hard to encourage branch formation. New shoots should be cut back to 1-2 leaves after 5-7 leaves have formed, which may be as often as every two weeks in a vigorous plant. Chaenomeles can be wired from spring through the end of summer, leaving the wire on for up to four months, and can be repeated yearly."

This is timely. My CHINESE quince is going thru the same response. I'm off to volunteer at the pacific rim Bonsai
exhibit today and will ask the curator what he recommends. He has a beautiful olde tree in his personal collection
without that problem.

before leaving for the collection to volunteer, I ran across a copy of bonsai today from 1996, issue 46, that has thorough information on how to correct our concern. I'll see what Mr De Groot says but if you can get your hands on a copy it would be worth while.

Oops...I'm sorry.

The curator says once the buds begin to swell on the chinese quince you can cut them back hard. This is pretty much what the article says that i mentioned earlier.

dick benbow wrote:The curator says once the buds begin to swell on the chinese quince you can cut them back hard. This is pretty much what the article says that i mentioned earlier.

This is exactly what I was thinking in that it takes the swelling terminal bud to produce the auxin that inhibits the back budding, once removed the tree doesn't have time to simply promote the next bud in line to "leader" hence the auxin is not introduced again! Awesome thanks for asking for us Dick. I wonder what other species this trick might be usefull with. That makes a lot of sense botanically.

-Jay

Chinese quince is now Chaenomeles sinensis.
Iris

bonsaisr wrote:Chinese quince is now Chaenomeles sinensis.
Iris

So its back where it started from?
-Jay

bonsaisr wrote:Chinese quince is now Chaenomeles sinensis.
Iris

Actually it's called pseudocydonia sinensis.

Nunovsky_PT wrote:

bonsaisr wrote:Chinese quince is now Chaenomeles sinensis.
Iris

Actually it's called pseudocydonia sinensis.

Apparently not. That is an old name. The taxonomists strike again.

Where I've read about it it said that the old name was chaenomeles sinensis and after it was reclassified as pseudocydonia sinensis.
But now I'm confused.

In the USDA website, it appears classified as Pseudocydonia C.K. Schneid.

http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=PSEUD45

Here it appears again classified as pseudocydonia sinensis, wihch is diferenciated from chaenomeles and cydonia.

http://books.google.pt/books?id=kAJ_mUrdpWMC&pg=PA5&lpg=PA5&dq=chinese+quince+classification&source=bl&ots=7q6-ymYplv&sig=I8hqjm2SxQXdqiLsqlPnrld49OI&hl=pt-PT&sa=X&ei=4yc1T9mvM6ar0QW6x8S6Ag&ved=0CGEQ6AEwBg#v=onepage&q=chinese%20quince%20classification&f=false

For those who might be interested, some clarification of the nomenclature and taxonomy of Chinese quince (known as Karin in Japan) might be in order. The currently accepted, valid Latin binomial for this is Pseudocydonia sinensis (Thouin) C.K. Schneid. Its basionym is Cydonia sinensis Thouin, the first name ever applied to it. It is the type species of the monotypic genus Pseudocydonia C.K. Schneid. The recombination Chaenomeles sinensis (Thouin) Koehne is an obligate synonym; nomenclaturally valid but taxonomically unacceptable. The same can be said of Pyrus sinensis (Thouin) Spreng. Yet another name applied to it, Pyrus cathayensis Hemsl., is invalid on account of its being a later published, facultative synonym. Pseudocydonia differs from Chaenomeles significantly by, among other things, lack of thorns and flowers which are produced singly rather than in clusters. It is close to European quince (Cydonia), in which it was originally classified, but differs notably in having serrated leaves.

Great and thorough explanation! I know whom to consult with taxonomy questions!

Here he is now, progressing, but difficult tree anyway!

Really nice, exceptional.

I have two myself,wonderful trees.

Is it a seedling or grafted? Grafted trees are much harder to ramify. Next season, feed it well and let the new shoots grow to about 150mm long. Prune these back to 1 node (leaf), weaker shoots to 2 or 3 buds. Then defoliate the entire tree leaving only those shoots that have not extended into shoots. You should get some back budding. Repot EVERY YEAR and always feed heavily. Prune the strong branches hard in winter.