Shohin Shimpaku

A couple of hours today thinning out a shohin shimpaku; I traded a friend for this raw material for a crabapple.

I let this grow untouched, except for tip trimming, for a couple of seasons as I like to make sure they are healthy.





It gets very overgrown and dense, but the branches ramified fairly well.



No wire applied yet, so it's still rather raw but I think promising.






As always, any thoughts or criticisms are welcome.


Cheers,

John

Lots of potential, the big root needs seeing to, though. Curious what you will do with it

arihato wrote:Lots of potential, the big root needs seeing to, though. Curious what you will do with it

You know I'm not really sure yet.

Once I get it out of the pot, I'll see whether or not I can remove it. If it stays, then possibly I could reorient it closer to the trunk in a way that it would not be as noticeable. If I can remove it completely then it would work into the shari.

Any ideas come to mind??

Well, Junis usually don't have great Nebari, so I think the best way to start is looking for the best trunk line and a good first branch. The rest should follow from there, there are enough twigs to form the canopy.

Lots of potential there. I like the movement in the trunk. Personally I would either remove the exposed root, or if that is not possible, essentially plant the juniper deeper, to put it under ground and encourage the juniper to air lay right at or just above that point. A third option would be to use grafting tape and lay this root tight against the trunk, it will eventually stay put and add the illusion of taper. I doubt it would fuse the way some deciduous would, but once firm against the trunk it will visually add taper.

Regardless what you do, it is quite a nice little tree.

Leo Schordje wrote:Lots of potential there. I like the movement in the trunk. Personally I would either remove the exposed root, or if that is not possible, essentially plant the juniper deeper, to put it under ground and encourage the juniper to air lay right at or just above that point.  A third option would be to use grafting tape and lay this root tight against the trunk, it will eventually stay put and add the illusion of taper. I doubt it would fuse the way some deciduous would, but once firm against the trunk it will visually add taper.

Regardless what you do, it is quite a nice little tree.

Thanks Leo,

I'd hate to plant it deeper since we would loose the movement of the trunk; either removing or working it closer to the trunk seem the best options. I can't see a third way just yet, but who knows?