When to chop Maple?

Mine is doing the exact same thing Ryan! Interesting how it'll go from a bare bark, to a tiny bump, to a bud in a relatively short period of time! Did you follow Bill's advice and repot it in a smaller container?

Fore wrote:Mine is doing the exact same thing Ryan! Interesting how it'll go from a bare bark, to a tiny bump, to a bud in a relatively short period of time! Did you follow Bill's advice and repot it in a smaller container?

It is pretty neat! I haven't done anything to it. It's still growing along in the same ol' container and seems to be happy.

Ryan wrote:I haven't done anything with this guy but let it recover. It's now got a second bud down on one of the roots, interesting.

well, let's nurture them to grow,
later to transplant the tree to go through
when the other side lack of branches.

Remove the bud in nebari. it will remove the of the upper ones.

Rui Marques wrote:Remove the bud in nebari. it will remove the of the upper ones.

So, I should remove the buds that sprout on the nebari, got it, thanks!

Here are some new shots of the tree, I haven't removed the buds mentioned yet:

Please, show us all the buds.

In my opinion you should remove the 2 lower buds, so that the energy directs to the upper ones.

I think this:
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tap pi lu wrote:I think this:
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Interesting idea, thanks!

Here is another shot showing all of the buds circled in green:


And here is the back of the tree, there are a few buds back there too:

Today:

Bustin' out all over. Looking good. That dog wants it. See that look in his eyes? That's trouble I tell ya.

Growing well, Ryan. It might be a good idea to add a bit more soil to the nebari to cover up those shallow roots. Good luck.

Ryan wrote:Today:

ay ay ayza.... I can not imagine. the branch was too longyou need to learn more cutting experience.

doing so would stimulate more new buds. don't get too 3 inch

Hmm shouldn't I let it grow out for a while to thicken it before cutting it back?

well this is necessary and continuously while the development tree.It helps the tree out more new buds and the distance of the buds will close together, so the tree will dwarf down.

well this is necessary and continuously while the development tree.It helps the tree out more new buds and the distance of the buds will close together, so the tree will dwarf down.

For anyone interested, here's an update of this tree. I've really just let it grow throughout summer and it's done pretty well. I'll get more pictures after leaf drop.

Any updates?

This tree is still very much alive. It doesn't look much different than the last pictures, just bushier.

I was most interested if you have chosen a leader yet. I will be doing something similar.

I'm doing a similar project with an amur maple.

I have decent backbudding and I had a new main branch "trunk" grow out the top (see pic), in about 2 weeks. But yesterday the new top broke in the wind and is now 2" long. Can't wait to see how the tree reacts.

jimlau wrote:I was most interested if you have chosen a leader yet. I will be doing something similar.

Well, there was really just one bud in the optimal place that sprouted and could become the leader, so that's the only leader there is.

Good thread!  This reallys helps newbies follow along with the processes of "drastic pruning".  Keep us updated.  I think I will try something similiar with a Japanese Maple.

Here are some updated pics:

looks quite vigorous.

so you haven't chosen the main branches and top yet, where maybe you would prune the other branches so the energy only goes to the eventual branches?