Wound Healing by growing new branches

Florida Red Maple is a rampant grower and easily gets ahead of you, so I am frequently taking off larger branches higher up on the trunk. Usually a lot of new growth sprouts around the wound.

Question: If I want to leave one of these new branches which location relative to the wound is best, above, below, on the side, or does it even matter.

I'd leave a couple of them on opposite sides, at least for a while. Then, when you finally remove one (or both) leave a 1/8 inch stub, and remove the bark from the stub. The stub will rot away while the new wound mends, with less scarring. I learned that the hard way.

Hey Jim,
Will this technique work with all maples? I have a Red, and Sugar, Grn Jap, Silver, and a Crimsom king I'm trying,
and was wondering about these?
Thanks ,
KJ

Well, it's not magic. It works better as branches get smaller, and it is better for smooth-barked trees (rough barked trees tend to his the wound with th scaly bark). The best thing to do with any tree is to experiment carefully.

TreeKiller64 wrote:Hey Jim,
Will this technique work with all maples? I have a Red, and Sugar, Grn Jap, Silver, and a Crimsom king I'm trying,
and was wondering about these?
Thanks ,
KJ

Not sure what you mean. Are you wondering about the advisability of growing those trees?
Red maple, Acer rubrum, is usable for bonsai, but very difficult. I have been fighting with a collected one for 18 years, & it's still a draw.
Sugar maple and silver maple are poor choices for bonsai. Don't bother.
A green Japanese maple is a fine bonsai subject. Concentrate on that one.
Crimson King is a striking landscape tree, but it is a cultivar of Norway maple. Not for bonsai.
Iris