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heavy trunk/branch/root removal timing for trident maples

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Post  bucknbonsai Fri Dec 02, 2011 4:43 am

I have many large tridents in zone 7 that have been field grown in their current location for 2-3 years. They had compact rootballs to begin with and they are now 9 feet tall with 4" trunks. I need to move them for landscaping reasons this spring and was planning on doing their trunk chopping and shortening of main limbs at that same time. I may leave certain sacrifice branches on however. I have had luck with this amount of work all at once before, luck meaning they lived and grew some that season. I know that dates for this will vary so references to stages of growth/leaf hardeningoffness (new word?) would be more useful. Does anyone have any other suggestions for this process? And is there any difference in this process for other other trees like chinese quince, elm, or japanese maples, junipers/pines? (i know the % reduction on evergreens has to be more gradual but in terms of seasonal timing could I do it the same time of year?)
thanks
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Post  David Noya Fri Dec 02, 2011 12:33 pm

When you do a trunk chop in late winter, it will encourage explosive, flucious growth with large internodes (usefull for trunkdevelopment). When you do the trunk chop in midsummer the tree has lost most of his 'spring'-energy resulting in less flucious growth with short internodes (good for apex-building).
...according to Peter Adams in his book Bonsai with maples.
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Post  Russell Coker Fri Dec 02, 2011 2:26 pm



David Noya wrote:When you do a trunk chop in late winter, it will encourage explosive, flucious growth with large internodes (usefull for trunkdevelopment). When you do the trunk chop in midsummer the tree has lost most of his 'spring'-energy resulting in less flucious growth with short internodes (good for apex-building).
...

...and a better looking callus. It's all connected.
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Post  D-Ho Mon Dec 05, 2011 12:31 am

When is the best time to do extreme root pruning with these? I'm talking about something like using a wood plane on the very bottom center of the root mass and shave away a bunch of wood to make drastic nebari. It will basically create a huge open wound under the trunk, which I imagine would need to be profusely sealed. Would winter work since it seems like slow calluses would form over the winter, but I know there is supposedly an explosion of root growth right before bud burst so would that be the best time?

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Post  drgonzo Mon Dec 05, 2011 1:13 am

I have always read that with regards to Maples we must be very careful as to timing if a drastic trunk reduction beyond all foliage is performed, Maples have a tremendous Back pressure if you will of sap in spring time, and are definate "bleeders." I would rather have slower growth and not risk the life of the tree, than go for broke early in spring and watch the stump bleed out. I have seem sugar maples literally flow like slow fountains from their stumps in spring if they were cut in autumn after leaf drop.


for those who do drastic Trunk chops with maples WHEN do you folks do the deed?
-Jay
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