Any ideas for my better progression of bugenvile

I dont know what to do for my progression bugenvile maybe anyideas appear in thus forum

Develop the pads to 3-4X their current width. Bring part of the pad around to hide a little bit of the trunks. I like the nice tight foliage and deadwood, but it currently looks like pom-poms on sticks. I know the last statement can be taken as an insult, but it is not meant that way. I think the key is to get more foliage that can be manipulated showcase the structure and deadwood.

Marty Weiser wrote:
Develop the pads to 3-4X their current width. Bring part of the pad around to hide a little bit of the trunks. I like the nice tight foliage and deadwood, but it currently looks like pom-poms on sticks. I know the last statement can be taken as an insult, but it is not meant that way. I think the key is to get more foliage that can be manipulated showcase the structure and deadwood.

Thank you for the advice and this is a very interesting idea, but it would be even more interesting if it could be drawn in a shape to facilitate the shape of the tree as expected. maybe others have more interesting ideas. thanks.

Mawardi - I know you were hoping for comments from others, but since there have been none I wanted to elaborate a bit on my recommendation.

The hollow trunk of your tree is very interesting, but the branches are fairly long and straight with foliage primarily at the ends. Growing more foliage will accomplish 2 things. You will be able to train some of the foliage to mask some of the long, straight branches. It will also most likely stimulate the growth of back buds that can be used to build more smaller branches similar to the small branch coming from the trunk on the lower left.

The tree currently tilts away from the viewer which is the opposite of what is traditional. I am wondering if changing the front to one that is rotated a further 15-20 degrees clockwise looking down on the top in the second picture and tilting the tree forward would look good. That brings the second trunk into the foreground, moves the upper right branch so it can form the apex, and hides a bit of the hollow adding a sense of mystery to the tree - what lurks in there?

You don't show much surface rootage (nebari) and I feel that strong nebari is a sign of an old, established tree. I would work on planting the tree a bit higher. My guess is that you can probably repot every year or every other year since I am guessing that you are in a tropical or subtropical region. I can repot my small bougainvilleas every 2-3 years and they sometimes struggle through the winter in my brightly lit windows during the 6 months they spend inside during the winter.

Marty

Marty Weiser wrote:Mawardi - I know you were hoping for comments from others, but since there have been none I wanted to elaborate a bit on my recommendation.

The hollow trunk of your tree is very interesting, but the branches are fairly long and straight with foliage primarily at the ends. Growing more foliage will accomplish 2 things. You will be able to train some of the foliage to mask some of the long, straight branches. It will also most likely stimulate the growth of back buds that can be used to build more smaller branches similar to the small branch coming from the trunk on the lower left.

The tree currently tilts away from the viewer which is the opposite of what is traditional. I am wondering if changing the front to one that is rotated a further 15-20 degrees clockwise looking down on the top in the second picture and tilting the tree forward would look good. That brings the second trunk into the foreground, moves the upper right branch so it can form the apex, and hides a bit of the hollow adding a sense of mystery to the tree - what lurks in there?

You don't show much surface rootage (nebari) and I feel that strong nebari is a sign of an old, established tree. I would work on planting the tree a bit higher. My guess is that you can probably repot every year or every other year since I am guessing that you are in a tropical or subtropical region. I can repot my small bougainvilleas every 2-3 years and they sometimes struggle through the winter in my brightly lit windows during the 6 months they spend inside during the winter.

Marty

Thank you for the comment, I don't understand if I have to rotate 15-20 degrees and whether the branches should be trimmed so that they are even lower, and if possible can be re-drawn the tree to make it easier to imagine. and thanks again for the very interesting advice.

Mawardi,

I tried to do some sketching tonight and it was not happening. Can you take two pictures using a front of the tee that would point from the center of the hollow to just to the right of the fertilizer basket and over the edge of the largest rock on the surface? One would be at the current elevation and the other would be from lower down, but not so low that we don't see the back rim of the pot.

Marty

Marty Weiser wrote:Mawardi,

I tried to do some sketching tonight and it was not happening. Can you take two pictures using a front of the tee that would point from the center of the hollow to just to the right of the fertilizer basket and over the edge of the largest rock on the surface? One would be at the current elevation and the other would be from lower down, but not so low that we don't see the back rim of the pot.

Marty

Thank you So much for replying and any Ideas, I have taken some pictures as follow :
Pict # 1


Pict # 2


Pict # 3


Pict # 4


Pict # 5


Maybe some the others any ideas for the tree. thank you for Marty Weiser once again for your best effort to my bugenvile.

Mawardi,

based upon your original pictures I was thinking of a front between your new pictures #1 and #2 and tilted a bit forward in the pot. The idea was to bring the large apex branch forward and still show some of the hollow. There is a light colored root on tie down wire in the hollow that is aligned very close to the front I was imagining.

However, I find pictures 4 and 5, particularly 5 very interesting for a front. You don't see the large hollow, but there is lots of movement and the base of the trunk is nice and wide.

I think a key to the development of this tree are to encourage any shoots that come out along the branches like the single leaf that shows very well in pictures 2 and 3. An additional key will be to wire out some of the branches that are forming the clumps of foliage at the ends of the branches so they are horizontal or even dropping a bit when they are young and flexible. This should include some curves in all 4 directions to go with some fo the curves in the larger branches. For example there is nice green shoot with 15-20 leaves on the left side of picture 1 that starts below the top clump of foliage. It appears to me that you may have been pinching/pruning to keep the foliage in check. I would let some of it grow and wires to give it shape. My guess is that in your climate it will produce new shoots along those fairly young but woody branches.

I live in a cold weather area so my two bougainvillea have to live inside for 6 months of the year. My older one is a dwarf that progresses very slowly. I have had it for 28 years and it has progressed from a 2 mm cutting to an awkward 12 mm trunked piece that looses all of its leaves when I bring it it. I have had the younger one for about 2 years after a club member passed away and no one wanted the stick in a pot. It shows the more typical growth habit and grows like a weed even inside during the winter. I think I will have a presentable trunk in another 5 years.

Marty Weiser wrote:Mawardi,

based upon your original pictures I was thinking of a front between your new pictures #1 and #2 and tilted a bit forward in the pot. The idea was to bring the large apex branch forward and still show some of the hollow. There is a light colored root on tie down wire in the hollow that is aligned very close to the front I was imagining.

However, I find pictures 4 and 5, particularly 5 very interesting for a front. You don't see the large hollow, but there is lots of movement and the base of the trunk is nice and wide.

I think a key to the development of this tree are to encourage any shoots that come out along the branches like the single leaf that shows very well in pictures 2 and 3. An additional key will be to wire out some of the branches that are forming the clumps of foliage at the ends of the branches so they are horizontal or even dropping a bit when they are young and flexible. This should include some curves in all 4 directions to go with some fo the curves in the larger branches. For example there is nice green shoot with 15-20 leaves on the left side of picture 1 that starts below the top clump of foliage. It appears to me that you may have been pinching/pruning to keep the foliage in check. I would let some of it grow and wires to give it shape. My guess is that in your climate it will produce new shoots along those fairly young but woody branches.

I live in a cold weather area so my two bougainvillea have to live inside for 6 months of the year. My older one is a dwarf that progresses very slowly. I have had it for 28 years and it has progressed from a 2 mm cutting to an awkward 12 mm trunked piece that looses all of its leaves when I bring it it. I have had the younger one for about 2 years after a club member passed away and no one wanted the stick in a pot. It shows the more typical growth habit and grows like a weed even inside during the winter. I think I will have a presentable trunk in another 5 years.

Thank you, just had time to reply, I will follow your directions and I think it is also suitable for picture no.5 as the front view and I will send the progress. thank you for the advice and brilliant ideas.