Pear tree

Hi all, here's a pear tree I've been working on lately.



Not sure what type but it was grown from seed from a desert pear. Any advice or critique are welcome.

Looks like a nice start to a modified broom. Why are you pulling the branch on the right down? It would think it either needs to go up and out as a much thinner counterpart to the branch on the left or be cut off.

I think the branch angle isn't too bad. It's going to be thickened a lot along with the other low branch and will be cut back hard and developed in the future. It's only been out of the ground for two years. Thanks for your reply.

Very nice material John.

I have no experience with pears but I would have thought a few years growing new branches, thickening the existing ones and a little bit of carving should leave you with a very nice tree.

I also think the drooping branch is fine as long as the rest follow the same sort of pattern.

Good luck and keep us updated on your progress.

Cheers

Richard

I quote what Richard said above

Richard S wrote:... ...I would have thought a few years growing new branches, thickening the existing ones and a little bit of carving should leave you with a very nice tree.
I also think the drooping branch is fine as long as the rest follow the same sort of pattern... ...

If you restrain from cutting back every new growth in order to get ramification and short internodes, letting the branches to grow free even for the whole growing season and then use the "hedge pruning" method by Mr. Walter Pall, i.e. cut back radically and then let grow again long to cut back radically again, you will soon have branch girth proportionate (more or less) to the trunk.

my nellie wrote:
(...) and then use the "hedge pruning" method by Mr. Walter Pall, i.e. cut back radically and then let grow again long to cut back radically again, you will soon have branch girth proportionate (more or less) to the trunk.

I'm not sure this method is the best one for all deciduous species.

The growth of Japanese maples and pear trees here in our semi-continental climate, and the way both species respond to pruning is rather different...

I'm in derbyshire and have used Walter's method on field Maple, Elms, oak, cotoneaster, escalonia , hawthorns, and beech in addition to Yew and all have responded really well. The right soil, food and watering and my trees are progressing really well and ar much healthier

Rest assured I'am a Walter Pall disciple.