Pyracantha
+3
kcpoole
JimLewis
fbizuneh
7 posters
Page 1 of 1
Re: Pyracantha
I'm assuming you realize that the first tree you pictured is an azalea and not a Pyracantha. And that their growth habits are considerably different.
JimLewis- Member
Re: Pyracantha
Yes, of course. I was speaking more of approaching the general design elements of lower branch balance by opposing nebari. Also the distinct separation between upper canopy and lower branch pads.
Fasil
Fasil
fbizuneh- Member
Re: Pyracantha
You need to cut the entire top WAY back -- to two or three leaves per branch, then grow it out, and repeat. Several times. Otherwise a Pyracantha just grows skinny, leggy branches.
JimLewis- Member
Re: Pyracantha
JimLewis wrote:You need to cut the entire top WAY back -- to two or three leaves per branch, then grow it out, and repeat. Several times. Otherwise a Pyracantha just grows skinny, leggy branches.
And wire them too.
The first branch on the left needs to be wired down. It appears to me as just an extension of the trunk line and looks awkward.
It looks like the back branch has shoots going upwards too. They need to be wired down as well.
the 3rd section of trunk, (bending to the right) is too long and needs to be reduces to the first branch on the left of it.
Ken
kcpoole- Member
Re: Pyracantha
Wow,
Ken from Ausbonsai.
Didn't know you were here.
Laters.
Khaimraj
Ken from Ausbonsai.
Didn't know you were here.
Laters.
Khaimraj
Khaimraj Seepersad- Member
Re: Pyracantha
Yes I am here ( and a few others too :-))Khaimraj Seepersad wrote:Wow,
Ken from Ausbonsai.
Didn't know you were here.
Laters.
Khaimraj
I monitor this forum and the trees for inspiration every day, and occasionally post when I feel I can add value.
I spend most of my time on Ausbonsai as that is more locally focussed for me.
ps Sorry to take the thread off topic Fasil.
to atone for that, here is my Pyracantha that was in the recent Ausbonsai Shohin Comp. It has a few years to go still but hope fully in the next year or so shoud have a nice canopy

Ken
Last edited by kcpoole on Sun Nov 16, 2014 12:35 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : added Photo)
kcpoole- Member
Re: Pyracantha
The initial branch that comes off to the right is great. The second branch, off to the left, needs to bend down. If I can remember correctly my brief disagreement with a pyrancantha, the branches quickly become brittle, so if it can't be wired I think it needs to be cut back dramatically so new growth can grow at a downward angle(perhaps that is how the lowest branch was bent down). After that, the trunk then curves sharply back across the tree in is a long, mostly straight, unsightly bar(no taper). I think I would ponder another dramatic cutback and regrow there. Perhaps it would then be seen what to do with the back branch.
Or... you could plant it in the ground to thicken the trunk and review a new start in a few years. The model tree you showed in the beginning has a thicker trunk with well developed nebari, and that will come much quicker grown in the ground.
Or... you could plant it in the ground to thicken the trunk and review a new start in a few years. The model tree you showed in the beginning has a thicker trunk with well developed nebari, and that will come much quicker grown in the ground.
Precarious- Member
Re: Pyracantha
Precarious wrote:The initial branch that comes off to the right is great. The second branch, off to the left, needs to bend down. If I can remember correctly my brief disagreement with a Pyrancantha, the branches quickly become brittle, so if it can't be wired . . .
It (and the ones just above) it CAN be wired, and yes they can be brittle. However, you don't need to reach the final bend in one go; make the bend over the course of an entire growing season. Try not to make the bends evenly bowed; the bends should have a sharp turn in them, but again not all in one attempt. And, you can take some heart from the fact that Pyracantha branches that snap, but stay in one piece (as most do) can, with care, mend with the sharp break maintained. Lots of wound paste and wire left on longer than normal.
Or... you could plant it in the ground to thicken the trunk and review a new start in a few years. The model tree you showed in the beginning has a thicker trunk with well developed nebari, and that will come much quicker grown in the ground.
While I'm a bit flattered that you chose my azalea as a model for this tree, I think it will have to be just a general model. Satsuki and Pyracantha just grow too differently. I doubt you can ever get the same degree of rootage out of your little tree.
You have a nice start toward a nice little Pyracantha bonsai.
JimLewis- Member
Pyracantha
Fruiting comes only after flowers have died and the tree sets seed. This process is demanding on the tree and you are better off removing any flowers before they open (leave 1 or 2 if you must for show).
The tree will then use the energy otherwise wasted on making seeds/fruit to make leaves - backbudding.
The tree will then use the energy otherwise wasted on making seeds/fruit to make leaves - backbudding.
BrendanR- Member
Re: Pyracantha
any chance you are considering removing one of the 2 parallel branches ?
Kevin S - Wisco Bonsai- Member
Re: Pyracantha
Hard to tell from this angle, but it looks like a trifurcation at the second branching. Will this species handle that well, or will there be an unsightly swelling over time? If the latter, then I would remove the back branch.
Precarious- Member
Re: Pyracantha
For evaluation that helps, but for display I don't see one angle better than another. I like Jim's advice to cut back-grow out-cut back-grow out. This will provide more branching and angles.
Precarious- Member
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