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So you've come down with Yamadori Envy , a possible cure

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So you've come down with Yamadori Envy , a possible cure Empty So you've come down with Yamadori Envy , a possible cure

Post  Khaimraj Seepersad Thu Nov 04, 2010 11:25 am

Okay, I am sending this, but images will follow tomorrow as I am out for the rest of the day and I use natural light for images.

That said, normally I suggest to anyone who has the desire to show, and want more than pre-bonsai in gallon cans, buy three to five --- so-called Bonsai.
Generally these are Chinese chop-sai field grown and then stuck into pots.

But you don't have access to the above, or no $$ or just very cheap.

Start out with trees that have the ability to multi-branch, ficus is fun, but until they have had much care and a given size - say 2 feet [ 61 cm ] they look like nothing, and even after so many years, without much branching / branchlets, it will still look very un-impressive.

Maybe you have a nursery with field grown or large pot trees. Try that. More $$$. Landscape specimens.

Collected from sides of buildings, drains, rooftops, old brick wall, someone's garden. Make sure it can multi branch / branchlets. Otherwise you are wasting your time.

It makes more sense to test on a pencil trunk with a branching head, than on a 5 inch trunk and 4 branches, with 1 dieing as another takes it place. Many trees do this. Many trees suggested for use in the indoor bonsai books do this as well. Be educated, read up on your victims.
Citrus for example, unless it is Fortunella hindsii, makes a horrible, non convincing bonsai, dump the bitter orange attempts. Trouble is Fortunella takes forever to trunk thicken, though the tree is worth the wait.
Ficus is easy to grow, but without the 5 inch trunk and height or width to go is largely unimpressive and will out grow the design rapidly. Easy to grow, difficult to maintain an impressive design. You normally end up with a triangle hat on a thick stick.
Try this instead, design the roots and trunk, play down on the foliage, as the Chinese do. You will stay sane.

Tropical trees on the whole have yet to really be studied for Bonsai or Penjing. It's a new world. More important to study the typical tree and leave out the wannabe shimpaku efforts [ Tamarindus springs to mind ] The Shimpaku, is the inspiration for Bonsai for a reason, as are some pines. Shimpaku with age can be very attractive and the large dead trunk is durable. I am not sure if Tamarind ever gets to to that durability ?
So much of your effort will end up on first lime sulphur and then epoxy. However, how do you coat the underneath of the exposed wood that may be in contact with the soil ?

On our side, on the sides of cliffs, you do not find trees doing the Shimpaku, termites make short work of them.

Trees you can use -
Casuarina handles a great pine style, if you must have a pine look.
Malpighias can be very small or tall, have interesting bark, flowers and fruit.
Gmelina a shrub, hedging material, large trunks rapidly.

Hedging material means anything style.

Fukien tea , hedging material, impressive appearance easily ground grown, large trunks.
Sageretia , any shape, just protect the wood. Very tree -like.
Ulmus any shape. Chinese Southern Elms.
Japanese Black Pine from seed is easy and the problem is learning how to train.
Illex [ Yaupon ] large trunks, fine branching.
Xanthoxylum species - just usable.
For a challenge - Cuphea hyssopifolia - can attain a 1 inch [2.5 cm ] trunk [ Yes Jim I remember the invasive comments.]
Calliandra - many types
Podocarpus

Don't have access to the above - match a local type to it.

Images will follow and ways to get trunks, which is where most tropicals fall flat on their faces.
Later.
Khaimraj
Khaimraj Seepersad
Khaimraj Seepersad
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Post  Khaimraj Seepersad Fri Nov 05, 2010 3:40 pm

As promised the grow pot - a 1/3 of a 55 US gal black barrel plastic filled with coarse soil.
The tree is a Samanea saman - as we call it a Saman
http://www.hear.org/starr/images/species/?q=samanea+saman&o=plants

First grown as 1 gallon specimen, when pot bound, lifted and placed into the grow pot. Objective here is a 4 inch [ 10 cm trunk ] I doubt I will be fortunate enough to get a first branch, so a chop will be made at a later date.
This tree coppices very well.

So you've come down with Yamadori Envy , a possible cure Grow_p10

The inorganic part of the soil - crush sifted eartheware red brick and crushed sifted sharp sand.

More information when you folk actually try the idea. I don't spoon feed. Apologies.
Khaimraj

So you've come down with Yamadori Envy , a possible cure Brick_10

I don't have any samples of the organic part, but it is what stays back on 1 x 1 inch [2.5 x 2.5 cm ] sieve.
Khaimraj Seepersad
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Post  Khaimraj Seepersad Fri Nov 05, 2010 4:01 pm

Before I forget - the reason for using earthenware brick is because it can help keep soil freely draining and at the same time holds water to release back slowly. Sand/gravel [ silica based ] holds water around itself.
See Mr. Walter Pall's discussion on the soil - seen in this forum.


A few trees from the "list",

Elaeagnus pungens - cutting - 80's

So you've come down with Yamadori Envy , a possible cure Eleagn10

A gift. Studying to learn how to grow - malpighia coccigera [ spelling ?] round leaf- 1 type - usable

So you've come down with Yamadori Envy , a possible cure Malpig10

the other side - about 6 inches tall [ 15 cm ]

So you've come down with Yamadori Envy , a possible cure Malpig11

Type 2 - also round leaf - sparse - imagination needed usable ?

So you've come down with Yamadori Envy , a possible cure Malpig12

Type 2 round leaf useless.

So you've come down with Yamadori Envy , a possible cure Malpig13

Beware books that suggest trees for indoors, some of them have cousins or cultivars that are totally useless and you waste endless time rolling stones up the hill.


Khaimraj Seepersad
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