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Aphids on Hibiscus

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Post  TreeKiller64 Thu Mar 26, 2009 5:04 am

yea ,, hit em with an insecticidal soap!!! Twisted Evil Or a full Blown Pesticide of your choice (use according to labeling) Laughing
Z5 KJ
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Post  Nina Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:16 am

Carolee wrote:How wonderful! I've just sprayed my hibiscus with pyola oil after discovering aphids. Any other suggestions?

Aphids are wimps- you can killl them with anything (soaps, oils, pyrethrins). The key is good coverage and a follow-up spray to catch any immature ones. The only risk is that the control method you use may be phytotoxic to the plant, so you should always test it on one leaf to make sure it won't cause damage. You should also read the directions carefully: some oils can't be used in hot weather.

Hibiscus, in my experience, are rather tender plants, so definitely watch out for phytotoxicity.

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Post  Carolee Sat Mar 28, 2009 9:42 pm

When testing on a leaf, how long should I wait to know that it won't damage the tree? Thanks!
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Post  bisjoe Sun Mar 29, 2009 6:19 pm

I wouldn't bother with chemicals on hibiscus. Mine are always inside and have only gotten spider mites once, but for aphids it's even easier to get rid of them. Merely use a hose end nozzle that you can set to a fine but powerful spray. Even use a shower hand held and do it in the tub. Hold a hand behind the branches to keep them upright and blast from all angles. The aphids will fall off. Repeat once or twice as needed for any that manage to survive in the soil and go back up. I use this method even on garden plants like roses. If you want to be more sure of your success, use this method, then spray with insecticidal soap like Safer, foliage and soil surface.
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Post  Carolee Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:51 am

Bisjoe, I sprayed as you described, three times over a seven day period, but in less than three days they were back, so I sprayed with pyola oil. When I first found the aphids on the hibiscus, I had checked the other tropicals in the vicinity and couldn't find any aphids on any other plants. However, today I have found them on my lime tree so I went ahead and used the pyola oil.

The hibiscus seems to get aphids every winter while it is in the house. It is rather irritating, although in the past, it seemed easier to get rid of them by a strong spray of water at the kitchen sink. Thanks for the responses.
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Post  Nina Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:56 am

After you spray a leaf to test for phytotoxicity, it should only take a day or two to see an adverse reaction.

And indeed, you can remove aphids with a hard spray of water, although that's easier outside than indoors. Outdoors, however, I almost never have aphid or mealy bug problems because the natural predators (ladybugs and whatever else) keep them in check. It's only when I bring the tender plants indoors for winter that I have massive problems.

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Post  TreeKiller64 Fri Apr 03, 2009 3:08 am

Well Heck,,
All i can really say is here (zone5a Illinois) when I ready the trees for the yearly jog back into the basement, (where there is no air movement and the humidity can go from 20% to 100% in 24 hours have done this.
From the trees I have in my Netherworld menagerie, Ficus, Cactus, Oak, Ivy, Succulents, N. Plum,(which the numbers range) etc. I usually start out the fall/winter by pruning the trees prior to bringing them indoors. My theory is that I will lose leaves due to being indoors so why not choose those leaves and branches ahead of the "natural Die-Off time? i usually acclimate the trees (all of them accordingly to their species) to my Zone%a Illinois fall season, and adjust to their "Natural" fall/winter season (Species accordingly) (hot to cold) (tropical to temperate) in other words the more South they are the faster I put them into the basement holding area.
This is where I do the REAL Prior, i watch the weather for my area an adjust, not only for the trees but I also do a final systemic spraying before I bring them indoors, this way I don't drag any unwanted Stowaways into My house.
Can you see where Im coming from? You have to adjust these procedures for your Zonal Area. I hope this
will help.
Sincerely,
TreeKiller64 aka
Kevin H Johnson
zone_5_bonsai@yahoo.com clown
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Post  Norma Fri Apr 03, 2009 3:40 am

OK...I'll bite !!

Are all your trees kept in the same area? What is the temperature in your basement for dormancy? Why do you not provide air circulation? Do you provide lights for the tropicals? Just a few questions for now...

Thanks, Kevin !

Norma
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Post  Carolee Fri Apr 03, 2009 4:49 am

I think your idea of a systemic spray before bringing them inside is an excellent idea (duh!, why haven't I don't it before Embarassed ) Up to now I haven't had any serious problems.

Then don't use the systemic. I was taught "don't shoot until you see the whites of their eyes." (Translation: Spray -- or whatever -- only when there's something to spray.) Especially with aphids! Or scale. Or spider mites. They're so easy to get rid of other ways.

Like Nina says, we're losing the battle of the bugs because so many of them are developing resistance to the sprays we tend to overuse. I'm sure that applies to systemics, also.

As a bit of an aside, tho related, is anyone else concerned about the TV ads for herbicides and lawn bug killers that tout the immediate lethality of the poison AND the fact that it keeps on killing all summer long -- and your driveway is weed free and your lawn is green all summer? What about the kids that play in the drive or on the lawn "all summer"?

Arrgh. Rachael Carlson, where ARE you?
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Post  TreeKiller64 Sun Apr 05, 2009 4:59 am

Ok Norma,,but don't bite. What a Face
I keep my tropicals Ficus, Cactus, and such in a room in my basement. Its stays around 60-68 F. I do have a fan
to circulate air, I only really use it when the ground water outside seeps up from the floor (a standard option for all
older mid-west homes) that is to dry out any major humidity problems that may occur. I may get an occasional
black fly or fungus gnat but I have a hand spray bottle ready for that too. I keep the light controlled to a
12-16 on and 12-8 off. I usually water once every 4 days and let them get a little on the dry side before i water again.
As for my outdoor trees I keep them in the same cold frame, Eastern Reds and Crab Apples alike. I control
Cedar/apple rust by just watching the Junipers for the gall prior to its opening, Ill pick them off and this usually keeps any possible rusts from happening. In fact this year should be a reasonable rust free one. I didn't see any on the junipers, so I'll keep em crossed.
I'm hoping after being back from Iraq for a year I can build the greenhouse I had planned, this would make winter care a little easier.
Sincerely,
Kevin
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Post  TreeKiller64 Sat Apr 11, 2009 1:44 am

Hey Norma,,
This is what I have to go with for my winter storage, it's about an 8X8 area made of sawhorses with extra long legs. covered with plastic. but it fits my outdoor collection and all there is to do is toos a little snow on the pots for water. I've kept Cedar_Apple Rust to a minimum by just hand picking the cedar galls in the winter when I find them. I've kept all my trees in close proximity all year long and really don't get any of the rust in the summer.
Here's my contraption (hopefully for the last time).
Sincerely,
Kevin J
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