After collecting

Okay guys,

Considering that the collecting process goes right, and I get the tree and its root ball out and transported back home, what comes next.

I've seen a lot of our members soaking the tree in Vit B prior to potting it. Rob just posted a thread over on the main gallery and he used a product call PHC treesaver. Is this recommended for a newly collected tree?

What do you guys do?

Luc

Well, we've gone round and round on this topic, but trees MAKE vitamins, they don't USE them. B-1 for plants is a bunch of blather.

Just get good roots, trim the ends cleanly, plant it immediately in a protected location with part sun, and be sure that the new soil leaves no air pockets around the roots. Water copiously, add some fertilizer, and don't let it dry out.

I 2nd that. It is all I do and have lost very few.

Listen to Jim - he's been around in bonsai for a while [and generally, too ], and has his head screwed on straight. I've read a lot of stuff on various blogs, forums, etc., and the scientific proof is against B1, and Superthrive. I haven't heard of this latest stuff (PHC treesaver), but I wonder if it is something like leaf-guard, to reduce leaf transpiration?

The most savvy members of my club use a little potash to help the roots recover. It's natural potash either in small pellets of fine granulates.

Nothing wrong with potash (Potassium, or the K in any balanced fertilizer).

Great advice Jim, way to much hogwash out there

I do spray a leaf anti transpiration product on Yews and Pines thought and that does help reduce the stress of collecting. check it out HERE

or if you are over the pond Here

TONY

I use these three products, the survival of trees is very high ...

DRIN-Liquid biostimulant based on aminoacids and natural bio-promoters. It activates the biochemical and enzymatic processes of any plant, stimulates photosynthesis, germination and rooting. It promotes the vegetative growth, blooming and fruit enlargement. Recommended to overcome any stress of plants.


ALGAREN bio-regulator
extract min. 90%
Ecklonia maxima Growth bio-regulator with natural auxins, betains and cytokinins, vitamins and micronutrients. Specially suited for stimulating rooting, blooming, fruit set and before harvesting to increase size and weight of fruits. It makes roots less sensitive to nematodes.


MAGIC P star
N 4.2% w/v+P2O5 37.8% w/v+MgO 8.4% w/v+Fe+Zn Liquid fertilizer based on phosphorus activated by magnesium, iron and zinc in chelated form. Also in an unfavorable season, this special formulation permits the quick absorption of phosphorus. So roots are stimulated and crops are prepared to an abundant blooming. Localized near the seed, by special nozzles, even without dilution it favours rooting and starting of industrial crops (sugar beet, etc.) and fodder plants (maize, etc.).


source: GREENHAS

**********
...always in training pot ...

PlantellaOrganik
Description: Longlasting universal organic fertiliser in form of pellets.
Advantages: 100 % organic fertiliser
30 % produce increase
prolonged effectiveness for over 6 months
in from of micro-pellets
without unpleasant smell
thermically processed


source: UNICHEM

Wow! Right off the advertising promotions.

I think you are wasting your money.

I wouldn't believe a word of what company PR people write about plant additives. Plants need NPK, trace elements, water, and sunlight (and, usually, some soil for roots to anchor in). PERIOD.

Any money you spend on anything else merely grows the company that makes it.

JimLewis wrote:Wow! Right off the advertising promotions.

I think you are wasting your money.

I wouldn't believe a word of what company PR people write about plant additives. Plants need NPK, trace elements, water, and sunlight (and, usually, some soil for roots to anchor in). PERIOD.

Any money you spend on anything else merely grows the company that makes it.

Maybe ...
The results of my approach, make me happy ... it's my choice!

JimLewis wrote:
(...) I think you are wasting your money.
(...) Plants need NPK, trace elements, water, and sunlight (and, usually, some soil for roots to anchor in).

It's true for plants that are more or less established, when there is no overdue stress when pruning the roots.

But I believe that for plants that have just been collected and have to undergo a radical change of environment, it does help them to recover: these products don't do miracles, they just help the chemical activity (or whatever you call it) of the roots stabilize faster.

As I said, the "senior members" at my club use phosphorus for yamadori, and at least one of them is not exactly what you would call a beginner

When collecting and you have to cut through big roots is it best to cut to the length they are going to have to be to fit in a pot.
I find in the past i have left them too long and then have to chop again which cuts any roots off i have made.

It probably is best to cut them a second time, anyway. Your rarely have the time (or ability) to make the cuts as sharp and clean as they ought to be while you are collecting them. Too much else going on out in the field.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I think I have a pretty good idea what to do. I've collected before and most have survived but have taken a long time to recover so I was just wondering if I'm doing things wrong.

Luc