Air layer Japanese Maple

I air layered this Japanese maple last summer. I grew this tree when it was the size of a pencil. The trunk had no tapper and there was a large bulge/protuberance about 2/3 up the trunk.



After about three months, the tree was ready to be separated.

Good roots formed but very fragile


All potted up!

Can someone tell me how to turn these pictures right side up please. They were turned upside down after they were already down loaded??
My first time posting pictures with this new format - its been a while.

Thank you.

Feels like I'm on a rollercoaster!! I can't tell which way is up!!

Nice job on the air-layer!!

Yes, I know what you mean, me too. When I uploaded them they turned upside down and side ways. I tried it again but same thing.

DaveV. wrote:Yes, I know what you mean, me too. When I uploaded them they turned upside down and side ways. I tried it again but same thing.

Havens to me too.

Nice work!

Out of interest, how long did it take for the layer to root?

Regards

Richard

Hi Richard. It took about 3 months. I placed moss around the ring and wrapped the moss with clear packing plastic and finally duck tape. I was able to see through the clear plastic to determine if the roots were growing.

I'm so glad you posted this.  I have have been interested in air layering a japanese maple I have but have held off out of shear fear and lack of confidence.  Seeing the pics and how awesome it turned out has me excited for spring.  Any other tips or tricks specific to your experience or the species (lots of variety in the world of jm's) that you could share would be awesome--thanks.

Jesse wrote:I'm so glad you posted this.  I have have been interested in air layering a japanese maple I have but have held off out of shear fear and lack of confidence.  Seeing the pics and how awesome it turned out has me excited for spring.  Any other tips or tricks specific to your experience or the species (lots of variety in the world of jm's) that you could share would be awesome--thanks.

Do it! Japanese maples are probably one of the easiest species to air-layer. I can't think of any of the many I've done that has failed.

Depending on your climate, the best "slot" is usually between late May and the first weeks in June, but air-layers can be done later, it's just that you will have to wait for next spring before severing it from the mother-tree.

And I use hormones on the cuts, but some people don't.

Thanks for the additional info.

BTW, what cultivar is it?

It seems to have thinner leaflets than the plain species, some contorted branches, and a rather spreading habit. The leaf colour too seems to be more light-green.

I am not sure. I ordered them from Bill Valivanis/International Bonsai seedling catalog about 10 years ago. I don't think it is a dwarf variety.

So now you have a promising tree to work with!

DaveV. wrote:I air layered this Japanese maple last summer.

I do not know how the climate is at your region, but isn't the general notion to air layer in spring?
Can you elaborate a little more on preferred timing, please.

Hi Alain!
I have been looking for you and your experience on B-Nut regarding the J.M. I want to to air layer [quote="AlainK"]

Jesse wrote:... ...Depending on your climate, the best "slot" is usually between late May and the first weeks in June, but air-layers can be done later, it's just that you will have to wait for next spring before severing it from the mother-tree... ...

Could you please rephrase this "slot" in terms of buds/leaves stage of growth?
Thank you!

I do most of my deciduous layers as soon as the first flush of new leaves have "hardened off". By that I mean they have fully unfurled and look mature, rather than soft fresh spring growth.

Hello Kev!
Thank you for the reply.
Our hardiness zone is similar one to another....

I'm curious to know, after you cut the trunk, did you go to bonsai soil and if so, did you carefully remove the sphagnum?

I have a red maple with three air-layers in progress.
In the old days, before bonsai, I'd just put them in some potting soil, but I'm curious to know about transitioning to bonsai soils.

I try to remove the moss, as far as is possible without endangering the fragile new roots. If it looks like you may snap any, then it is best to put the whole thing, moss and all into a slightly larger plant pot and surround and bury it with a good bonsai mix. I use calcined montmorrilonite, granite grit, and chipped bark which is an open and quite lightweight mix. The tree must be securely attached to the pot, so that there is NO wobble even if it is nudged or blown by wind. Next spring the roots will be strong enough to be manipulated and all traces of moss removed, but no so strong that they can't be rearranged and placed in a good radial pattern.

chopping up the moss prior to applying also helps to gently rinse it out when removing the airlayer.

Great point Kevin. I meant to mention that, but forgot.

Great point Kevin. I meant to mention that, but forgot.