Willow oak

These are willow oaks and are much better bonsai subjects than most Southeastern US oaks -- closer to the oaks of the western US. Have fun with it.

coh wrote:That last pic is what the leaves look like on mine as well...definitely not as long and skinny as the willow oaks I've seen in the landscape up here (or as in Zach's pic), but not obviously club shaped like the schematics of water oak.

In either case, if it doesn't really matter in terms of culture, that's good enough for me!

LittleJoe, nice to see you here on ibc.

Chris

You as well Chris

Zach Smith wrote:

LittleJoe wrote:Thanks Zach,

What's your advice on taking care of it. That picture really is the tree's best angle. It has a lot of issues. I wonder if it coming from Florida that it never got a proper dormancy. The plan right now is to re pot it in the spring into some gritty mix and just let it grow for a few years. What do you feed yours?

Thanks again,

Oaks are tough as oak (ha), so they can take a good bit of abuse.  I think repotting in spring is definitely the way to go.  Willow oak likes moisture, but I'd avoid any soil mix that doesn't drain well.  Just keep it well watered.  As for food, I use the time release stuff with trace minerals.  Simplifies things for me.

Zach

Thank you Zach

Those are interesting oaks that are pictured in this thread.  
The Willow Oak, Quercus phellos is one of the outstanding species of North American Oak trees to develop and work with as Bonsai.  
I believe that the reason is the relatively shallow growing root systems of these trees in the wild.  That being said though, Oaks take a level of care, patience and timing that is a bit different from other deciduous trees used as Bonsai.
THIS ARTICLE regarding the landscape/wild collection and care of Quercus robur, European Oak from Harry Harringtons Bonsai 4Me web site is one of the most knowledgeable and informed articles regarding the keeping of Oaks as potted plant material I have yet to discover and read.

The most informative and helpful information I found in the article, was specifically regarding the seasonality and Timing Issues of re-potting and working with Oaks.
Good luck with your Willow Oak.  I have good luck working with that species and have also discovered that Pin Oak, Quercus palustris adapts pretty readily to pot cultivation as well.  But unfortunately, it takes a bit more work to reduce leaf size in Pin Oaks however.

Auballagh wrote:Those are interesting oaks that are pictured in this thread.  
The Willow Oak, Quercus phellos is one of the outstanding species of North American Oak trees to develop and work with as Bonsai.  
I believe that the reason is the relatively shallow growing root systems of these trees in the wild.  That being said though, Oaks take a level of care, patience and timing that is a bit different from other deciduous trees used as Bonsai.
THIS ARTICLE regarding the landscape/wild collection and care of Quercus robur, European Oak from Harry Harringtons Bonsai 4Me web site is one of the most knowledgeable and informed articles regarding the keeping of Oaks as potted plant material I have yet to discover and read.

The most informative and helpful information I found in the article, was specifically regarding the seasonality and Timing Issues of re-potting and working with Oaks.
Good luck with your Willow Oak.  I have good luck working with that species and have also discovered that Pin Oak, Quercus palustris adapts pretty readily to pot cultivation as well.  But unfortunately, it takes a bit more work to reduce leaf size in Pin Oaks however.

Good read, thank you for that. Do you adhere to the principles in the article?

Little Joe wrote:Do you adhere to the principles in the article?"

Yes.  I was having the same problems Harry was having when re-potting my oak trees in the spring.  Severe die back down to root or basal suckers. And once, with a pretty nice one.... even death of the tree.
The article confirmed a timing issue for doing those things with my Oaks.  These things a late sleepers!  So, now I know to perform work much later in the season, than for my other deciduous trees.  Keep a close eye on them, and the oaks themselves will tell you when they're ready, as the buds start swelling and getting 'feathery' when the tree is waking up.  

Auballagh wrote:

Little Joe wrote:Do you adhere to the principles in the article?"

Yes.  I was having the same problems Harry was having when re-potting my oak trees in the spring.  Severe die back down to root or basal suckers.  And once, with a pretty nice one....  even death of the tree.
The article confirmed a timing issue for doing those things with my Oaks.  These things a late sleepers!  So, now I know to perform work much later in the season, than for my other deciduous trees.  Keep a close eye on them, and the oaks themselves will tell you when they're ready, as the buds start swelling and getting 'feathery' when the tree is waking up.  

So just to be clear, don't do any root work in till it has leafed out? That's very important info for everyone working with oaks!

That could also explain the great nebari:



Thank you again,

Little Joe wrote:So just to be clear, don't do any root work in till it has leafed out?

Yeah, I have had very good results in transplanting, collecting, potting up and-repotting (Root work!) Oaks,  when I have waited until the tree was out of dormancy.  
That being said, I would still recommend going as early as possible for this.  For one thing, there will a lot less stress on the tree, while it's still relatively cool out.  For another, catching it early before the new, emergent leaves have hardened off will ensure that the stored energy in those roots is flowing strongly up that trunk to build the new leaves.  Perfect conditions for root work.