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Plants from Hill - The second lot is Dying too

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Kev Bailey
john blanchard
Vance Wood
MKBonsai
0soyoung
JimLewis
yogesh
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Post  yogesh Fri May 09, 2014 1:54 pm

Jim, Mk, Rolex,Vance, Kev, John thanks a lot..

MK you seeems to know abt this species quit well.. they two sawara cypress are stil fighting to survive.. every morning i wake up and before i go to sleep i check their health .. hope they come out of crisis..

you and others pointed out rightly that the soil is dry .... despite my statement that i try top keep them wet....
i hv put the self cooling moss on one of them...

i will nt give up and will learn how to grow them well....

Smile
yogesh
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Post  M. Frary Fri May 09, 2014 9:30 pm

Good luck to you. I hate to bring this up but they are going to need a dormant period this winter also.

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Post  RKatzin Sat May 10, 2014 7:23 pm

Here are some pics of the trees you have.
This is a Cryptomeria japonica, Japanese White Cedar
Plants from Hill - The second lot is Dying too - Page 2 Mikawa13

Plants from Hill - The second lot is Dying too - Page 2 Mikawa14

And this is your Chamaecyparis pissifera, Boulavard Cypress.
Plants from Hill - The second lot is Dying too - Page 2 Mikawa15

Neither of these trees are 'native' to southern Oregon, but they do very well here. You know what I can't grow here? Ficus and other tropical trees that flourish in your local. I do have a couple of ficus and a bunch of crassula, but I have to make special condituions to grow these where I live. Primarily they have to come indoors for the winter or they would not survive.

You can not do this with temperate climate trees as indoor climate is a death sentence for most of these trees. You say these come from the hills. Were they growing naturally or cultivated?
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Post  MKBonsai Sun May 11, 2014 10:20 am

The question about whether a dormant period is required or not is an interesting one. Most conifers are hardy i.e. can survive at low temperatures, but that doesn't necessarily mean that they need a cold period to survive. For example, there are plenty of junipers and pines growing in the southern Mediterranean that never see frost and see temperatures up in the 30's in summer - but which survive cold winters elsewhere. I have a juniper grown from seed collected in Cyprus (which rarely sees anything below 10 degrees Celsius in Cyprus) that has happily survived outside for two English winters as a seedling and is growing well. There are also other examples - Cedar of Lebanon, etc. So it is not automatically the case that a dormant period is definitely required for conifers and only experimentation will confirm this for a particular species.

The key with the Sawara is to keep it in most but well drained soil, with regular feeding and foliage misting in high temperatures to keep the foliage green. It may be that without a dormant period they will eventually die, but its worth keeping going to get everything else right and to then see what happens over time.

Good luck!

JT - MKBonsai
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Post  M. Frary Sun May 11, 2014 11:41 am

MKBonsai wrote:The question about whether a dormant period is required or not is an interesting one. Most conifers are hardy i.e. can survive at low temperatures, but that doesn't necessarily mean that they need a cold period to survive. For example, there are plenty of junipers and pines growing in the southern Mediterranean that never see frost and see temperatures up in the 30's in summer - but which survive cold winters elsewhere. I have a juniper grown from seed collected in Cyprus (which rarely sees anything below 10 degrees Celsius in Cyprus) that has happily survived outside for two English winters as a seedling and is growing well. There are also other examples - Cedar of Lebanon, etc. So it is not automatically the case that a dormant period is definitely required for conifers and only experimentation will confirm this for a particular species.

The key with the Sawara is to keep it in most but well drained soil, with regular feeding and foliage misting in high temperatures to keep the foliage green. It may be that without a dormant period they will eventually die, but its worth keeping going to get everything else right and to then see what happens over time.

Good luck!

JT - MKBonsai
Uh. O.K. Good luck too then. I still think it's byebye Sawara. What do I know. Probably because I have a couple of these and some Hinokis too. I live in Michigan where I own temperate trees that need a dormant rest period. The ones we're talking about must be the tropical false cypresses. My bad.

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Post  MKBonsai Sun May 11, 2014 5:45 pm

M.Frary - you could well be right - it would be useful if anyone knows for sure as I certainly wouldn't bet either way!

JT
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Post  M. Frary Mon May 12, 2014 5:23 pm

It will be interesting to find out. I hope for the O.P.'s sake I'm wrong cause he sure is trying his hardest to keep them alive.

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Post  Kevin S - Wisco Bonsai Mon May 12, 2014 6:17 pm

just a quick note from a novice re: watering...

in my novices classes, the instructor has well over 20 years of experience and beautiful trees...
he uses the simplest method of determining if a tree needs water:

after watering, take a chop-stick or bamboo skewer and stick it down into the soil
(pretty much as far as you can) and leave it there.
next day or so, pull it out and if its still wet, dont water.
if it is dry or barely damp, go ahead and water.
always returning the stick to the pot and leaving it in to check every day or so...
(unless showing the tree of course)

and remember: a shallow pot holds more water than a deep pot !
which i found surprising, but the science is solid.

(sometimes we gather so much knowledge that we forget the simple things)

kevin
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Post  M. Frary Mon May 12, 2014 6:20 pm

I used to use shiskabob skewers because they are smaller in diameter.

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Post  Kevin S - Wisco Bonsai Mon May 12, 2014 6:25 pm

M. Frary wrote:  I used to use shiskabob skewers because they are smaller in diameter.

ditto and still do for my mame/shohin...
i tried the metal ones, but they didnt work so good  geek 
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Post  Vance Wood Tue May 13, 2014 2:14 am

yogesh wrote:Jim, Mk, Rolex,Vance, Kev, John thanks a lot..

MK you seeems to know abt this species quit well.. they two sawara cypress are stil fighting to survive.. every morning i wake up and before i go to sleep i check their health .. hope they come out of crisis..

you and others pointed out rightly that the soil is dry .... despite my statement that i try top keep them wet....
i hv put the self cooling moss on one of them...

i will nt give up and will learn how to grow them well....

Smile

I don't understand why you cannot water them by pouring a cup or two of water on them? It seems to me that by the time you figure this out the trees will be dead?????
Vance Wood
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Post  yogesh Tue May 13, 2014 6:43 am

Vance Wood wrote:
yogesh wrote:Jim, Mk, Rolex,Vance, Kev, John thanks a lot..

MK you seeems to know abt this species quit well.. they two sawara cypress are stil fighting to survive.. every morning i wake up and before i go to sleep i check their health .. hope they come out of crisis..

you and others pointed out rightly that the soil is dry .... despite my statement that i try top keep them wet....
i hv put the self cooling moss on one of them...

i will nt give up and will learn how to grow them well....

Smile

I don't understand why you cannot water them by pouring a cup or two of water on them?  It seems to me that by the time you figure this out the trees will be dead?????

Hi.. Vance they are watered regulary... sometime i soak them in water and then hol the pot till the etra water drains out... Moss is to keep the moisture and cooling effet as the temperature is swinging between 32-42 degree out here.. they are in perfect semi shade...
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Post  MKBonsai Wed Aug 19, 2015 8:59 pm

Any updates on whether these trees made it or not??

JT
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