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Systemic verses Spray

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brett2013
Ryan
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Systemic verses Spray Empty Systemic verses Spray

Post  Ryan Tue Apr 15, 2014 2:11 pm

Hi everyone,

I've got spider mites for what seems like the 40th time this winter/spring, and I'm beyond done with them. Would you all suggest I try a systemic or a spray/oil? Which is safer for indoor use (I only have ficus)? Wouldn't the systemic take longer to start working?

Thanks for any tips!

Ryan
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Post  brett2013 Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:44 pm

I used a Neem-based ready-to-use spray to kill all the spider mites that came with some trees I bought. Total eradication after a week or two, sprayed every 3 days, totally soaked the plant each time, under and above leaves, trunk, branches. Didn't have to do it in the soil, but you could, spray the surface only in an attempt to get it soak 1 inch into the soil.

The plants I had were indoors too, but I brought them out into the shade and sprayed them before bringing them back in after they dried up (which is only 30 mins to 1 hour in my area, really super humid these days, global warming ?). They'll have the neem smell for a few hours and dissipate slowly.

The one I used was this :

http://www.zagro.com/gardencare/zarachtin.jsp

It probably will not be available at your place, but you can find something similar, active ingredient is Azadirachtin. Bayer has a similar one :

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bayer-Advanced-24-oz-Ready-to-Use-Natria-Neem-Oil-706250B/203703877

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Post  chipalee Tue Apr 15, 2014 5:42 pm

Being in the tropical plant business for almost 20yrs. I know what kind of a problem mites can be. I have generally found oil sprays to be ineffectual. One must understand that mites are a arachid & to eraditcate a population you must be deligent. One application won't due the job. Mites are basically born pregnant. A
spay will not kill the eggs. You must spray at-lest THREE times to get the whole population. Here's what I did.....
Mix a solution of 20-25% isoproypyl alcohol in water - Use 70% rubbing type aalcohol-in a spray bottle. Add two tablespoons of PINE SOIL last; pine soil foams
to much if you don't add last. It must be PINE SOIL becaucse of the pine oil & ammonia. Spray tree thoroughly making sure you get the leaf undersides. Do this
application 3-5days apart. Make sure you keep tree out of strong light until solution is completely dried. Cover roots with plastic. This remedy is not as toxic &
much more economical.
Good luck
Chipalee

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Post  JimLewis Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:10 pm

I assume you mean Pine Sol.

Systemic verses Spray Pine-s10
JimLewis
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Post  chipalee Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:15 pm

Slip of the finger. Yes 7 the green bottle,

chipalee
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Post  chipalee Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:17 pm

I'll try again. Yes, the green bottle in the center.

chipalee
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Post  Ryan Wed Apr 16, 2014 8:19 pm

Thanks all.

I think I'm going to go with a product called 'Mite-X' which is sold at the local nursery and highly recommended. It's going to be somewhat nice tomorrow, so I'll take the trees out and spray them down and keep my fingers crossed.

Ryan
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Post  brett2013 Sat Apr 19, 2014 9:56 am

Good luck !

That's an interesting product. Since 1926 ! I guess it should work ...

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Post  JimLewis Sat Apr 19, 2014 1:57 pm

That's an interesting product.

"Interesting" is the word. It claims to kill aphids, thrips and mites, but also claims to be exempt from government (EPA and Agricultural) regulation as a pesticide. NO ingredients are listed.
JimLewis
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Post  Ryan Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:29 pm

Hmm well maybe I'll go with another spray  Laughing 

Ryan
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Post  Ryan Mon Apr 21, 2014 3:00 am

I think I'm going to give Bonide All Seasons Hort. Oil to get rid of the pests.

Ryan
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Post  augustine Tue Apr 22, 2014 3:19 pm

Ryan,

Horticultural Oil or Neem Oil work well for mites and could be used now. When weather gets warm I would move the plants outside and use a product like Avid, a miticide that contains abamectin. I do NOT know if this chemical should be used for plants kept indoors.

(I have followed your posts for several years) I don't think you'll have long term success with pest/disease eradication growing in your closed systems such as the grow boxes and aquariums.

Can you grow in an open room? Continue to use grow lights and keep a pedestal or box fan blowing on the plants for 12 hours per day. Take your reflective mylar and place on the surfaces on which the plants sit.

Keep growing! Good luck and best regards,

Augustine

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Post  Ryan Tue Apr 22, 2014 6:25 pm

augustine wrote:Ryan,

Horticultural Oil or Neem Oil work well for mites and could be used now. When weather gets warm I would move the plants outside and use a product like Avid, a miticide that contains abamectin. I do NOT know if this chemical should be used for plants kept indoors.

(I have followed your posts for several years) I don't think you'll have long term success with pest/disease eradication growing in your closed systems such as the grow boxes and aquariums.

Can you grow in an open room? Continue to use grow lights and keep a pedestal or box fan blowing on the plants for 12 hours per day. Take your reflective mylar and place on the surfaces on which the plants sit.

Keep growing! Good luck and best regards,

Augustine


Thanks Augustine!


My next plans are to remove all humidity setups. While the humidity is great for the trees and slows down the mites considerably, it may be better to grow openly. I plan on building a frame, and attaching plywood to 3 of the sides, leaving the top open, and having a panel on the bottom as well. I will staple mylar to the plywood, which will help reflect the light back onto the plants. I'll have a fan blowing on them as well, and will continue spraying with a soapy solution until they go outdoors.

Ryan
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Post  kirk@localbonsai.com Fri May 23, 2014 3:16 pm

In all honesty, I would stay away from the horticultural oils. They can be effective with mild pest issues, but Neem oil is not gonna stop a bug dead in its tracks. You need something more powerful!
kirk@localbonsai.com
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