murraya paniculata mock orange

need some advice how to best grow murraya paniculata called mock orange in hawaii. made one try years ago. the tree died so I never tried another until yesterday. found a great source with a willing owner. dug these to try. the best ones are still in the ground while I experiment. I have them potted in akadama/black cinder, bagged in plastic in the shade/morning sun. To jun and others who successfully grow this tree. anything I should be doing that I'm not?

best wishes from hawaii.

sam

Hi Sam,
In your side of the counntry(we almoost have same weather) you'll not find hard to grow it,it's rather an east tree to grow,needs a lot of sub once establish.For now since you;ve done some workshop jus put it where the mrning sun and gradually push it to max exposure.I see a good one inyou tree,good luck and enjoy.
Regards,
Alex/Ogie

Hi Sam
I have a large one here in Sydney I dug a few years ago. I did a Workshop with Peter Adams on it 2 years ago.

It gets lots of light, but only morning Sun.
Plenty of water and Fertilise with a Chicken poo mix every few weeks.
Currently growing in my Diatomite/ Zeolite mix, but Akadama should be great too

Sam,
the advice of the two gentlemen before me is good.
but if your previous tree died while you did the same process as the ones you have now. i would suggest that you might change some of your approach, like you said if your best tree is still on the ground, you are right not to dig it up yet until you are sure on what to do.
it is wise to have 2 to 3 trees for your "experiment",not the good ones ofcourse, with different soil composition. including the same soil type that you had on the previous tree that died.
your collected tree would have a good survival chance, if you could get your trees with rootballs because it also comes with the natural soil where it came from. then plant them in a bigger container (much larger-3 to 4 times bigger and deeper than what you have in the photos) with your prefered soil composition on the bottom and some on the side of the rootball. then when your trees are thriving well, in your next repot (you dont have to wait untill your roots are pot bound) you can gradually change and remove the original soil. slowly but surely.
do not exposed your murrayas in the full sun until you got branches with healthy leaves, mine usually last 5 to six months under a net. dont worry with your trees under the shade. murrayas can take full sun and partially shaded areas.

regards,
jun

thanks for all the good advice. the trees are planted in good media, bagged for humidity and warmth and in mostly shade. just gotta wait and see what happens.

Sam,

We usually collect Orange Jasmine from March to the end of April. This coincides with the budding season. We have many growing in our central mountains.

On another note, being a rutaceae, its roots HATE to be wet and the soil medium HAS to be well aireated.

Kind regards,

Jose Luis

so far I seem to be on the right track. thanks, jose. if these grow, I will go back for the best ones.

Sam,

my advice to you was based on my personal experienced with my trees.
here is one of my orange jasmine im growing with the same procedure that I told you.
ht of tree-60cm
leaves and branches are healthy. healthy leaves and branches means healthy roots



soil composition mixture of some original soil and course sand. nebari complete without sign of rotting under the soil.


note the growing moss on the trunk, due to shaded placement of the tree.



this tree is in the second pot. repotted 1st time 3 months ago-reason slowly removed much of the original soil.
6 months from now I will repot again to remove all of the original soil and replaced it with more aireated medium...slowly but surely.


regards,
jun

Surely bonsai questions for this one.

yes Will?

different techniques for different trees.

regards,
jun

here is one of the logic in my soil composition.

original soil on top-to reduced shock on the tree
very course medium at the bottom, around 1 to 2 inch diameter
sand in the middle

reason- as the tree settles in the pot and due to watering for long period of time original soil will settle at the bottom where the "stone" size medium is located. then after the tree stablished itself on the new environment, repot is needed to reomoved the soil settled beneath the sand layer. this procedure will be repeated until all of the original soil were replaced.

regards,
jun

jun wrote:yes Will?

different techniques for different trees.

No need for the question mark. This is a question on how to grow Jasmin Orange. Questions go in questions, bonsai in bonsai.

you're absolutely right will !!! thanks jun. I appreciate the advice.

got it will.

sometimes during the exchange of conversation we tend to forget the boundaries between topics... I hope we, specially I, didnt caused much trouble with this one. Il keep that in mind.

regards,
jun

Jun,

Your tree seems to be thriving, but it does have rot and sap withdrawal on the lower portion. I believe that excess watering might be the cause. Below a highlighted image of the damaged area in your tree. The difference in bark color is usually an indicator.

Thanks Jose Luis.

il look into it. I need all the nebari. probably need the repot sooner than I previously planned if rotting is occuring at the moment.

regards,
jun

Jose Luis,

just checked on the roots... its all ok. the discoloration was a result of my partial excavation of the top soil and moss removal to show the formation of nebari under the soil. just the same ,thanks again.

got some question for you regarding my ironwoods, il post it soon for your advice.

regards,
jun

3 years past, is it still alive? Can you post some pictures?

matievski wrote:3 years past, is it still alive? Can you post some pictures?

yes



Here!




regards,
jun  






...Just kidding, maybe next year. Stay longer more in IBC and wait.

murraya 3 years later.  before pruning

happy new year.   sam

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after

best wishes,   sam

july 2013

december 2013

jan. 2014
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Thank you very much for an update!! Came out really gorgeous!
Inspired!