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Blackpine not budding

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Sakaki
FrankP999
fuzei
marcus watts
R3mco
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Post  BonsaiJim Thu Jun 21, 2012 10:06 pm

fuzei wrote:Jim.. Very Happy a 'seki' farm?? A play on words or name or suiseki ? buried like pots to age and open the glaze?

My last name is? Break down your pidgen japanese people! I used to offer up a 1-0% discount when my nursery opened to anyone that could figure it out.... then word got around to all the COB's in the club... one was dumb enough to spurt - "Hey can I get that discount if I tell you what yer name means?

Also, I kind of like this:

"Seki, a Japanese go term adopted into English, means mutual life. In its simple form, it is a sort of symbiosis where two live groups share liberties which neither of them can fill without dying. "


fuzei wrote:Your Texas Persimmons: this 'stasis' was the final deciding point for me to try to start a discussion (poor attempt I gather) on why and when one might choose one technique over another.. and I would also learn something if I could entice Marcus to explain his rationale by explaining part of the science side of mine..

I cringe when I think of all the really good collected cattle-nibbled material that may have went into the compost pile because "it never budded out"... or "I repotted it and then it never recovered." Sad thing is I've heard these exact phrases from folks that also did not know to use their thumbnails...

There was a phrase for this application of technique based on sign/symptom rather than calendar... can't remember- anyone?

As for Edzard's final question, while I've never paid that close attention ( I certainly will now) I tend to put pines off to last so in the way of idiot-savantism I have some degree of bud-break. Given the time they would probably be at least a 3 or greater....


Molasses- I've heard it- never used it- part of that organic biodynamic hooey. Really all I know is that it provides culture media for microorganisms- so why spray on plant leaves (foliar feeding- rumour or trumour?). I guess it assumes the good "bugs" (i.e., microrhyzza- are there any others we really care about?!? because otherwise why do we lean on an essentially inorganic mix?) will be ones that thrive on it?

A quick lit search- I'll try and go more in depth later...

I found a few papers re: attraction of predatory insects when it is used. One on reduction of root knot galling and nematode populations in potted tomatoes... No effect on tobacco pests... mixed bag- maybe there's a gem in the fertilizer pile for us?

How about this? http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_does_molasses_make_plant_blooms_bigger

I think you are referring to Garrett... I've heard him speak, never been particularly impressed although there are those in my club that think he's the second coming.

Garrett Juice (ready to spray):
1 cup compost tea
1 ounce molasses
1 ounce natural apple cider vinegar
1 ounce liquid seaweed

For Garrett Juice Plus and more fertilizer value add:
1- 2 ounces of liquid fish (fish hydrolysate) per gallon of spray.

For disease and insect control add:
¼ cup garlic tea or
¼ cup garlic/pepper tea
or 1 - 2 ounce of orange oil

For homemade fire ant killer add: 2 ounces of orange oil per gallon of Garrett Juice

Note 1: To avoid burning plant foliage, the ready-to-use solution should not have more than 2 ounces of orange oil per gallon of spray.

Note 2: We now know why the mix works so well, not only on the foliage, but also in the soil. The ingredients are a well balanced blend of nutrients and food for both beneficial fungi and bacteria.

Garrett Juice Concentrate: Mix the following: 1 gallon of compost tea or liquid humate, 1 pint liquid seaweed, 1 pint apple cider vinegar, and 1 pint molasses. To make Garrett Juice Plus add 1 pint fish hydrolysate. Use 1½ cups per gallon of water for the spray.
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Post  my nellie Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:40 pm

I know some Italian fellow bonsaists who use glucose in order to intensify the Autumn color of maples.
They dissolve it into the irrigation water and begin to use it on their plants about one month before the maples start to change color.




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Post  R3mco Fri Aug 10, 2012 10:38 pm

Hi guys,

An update Smile

Unfortunately, the tree died about a week back.
It showed signs of recovery, but collapsed about 4 weeks after the repot, very slow motion.
I tried to save it misting a lot with Rhyzotonic, that kept it alive, but I probably only prolonged the death of the tree

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Apparently, the root rot continued even though it was transplanted into the lava soil.
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I dug some more into the core of the root system, and was pretty surprised to see the original soil was just ordinary garden center potting soil Evil or Very Mad

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Some funghi even set in to make the rotting complete:

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Expensive firewood, I'd say Sad

RIP 1970 † 2012
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Post  marcus watts Fri Aug 10, 2012 10:59 pm

hi, shame........
what you have learnt will not be wasted on future pines you may buy though. Soil and pot conditions are everything - never trust someone elses soil mix, i have some expensive trees in my 'hospital' care that friends drop round when things start going wrong. I get them out of the pot in minutes and 80% of the time find compost type soil under the trunk, or a solid ball of clay like field soil.

I have a £1000 juniper here atm that had one single surviving root circling the pot and a black soggy mass in the middle- it had been repotted into leaf mould and compost when the seller took it from the nice pot and put it in a mica pot before selling it.

chin up and see if you can find people in a club nearby as they will hopefully have sorted out soils that suit localised conditions - but a little rule to go with is akadama is a soaking wet soil ingredient so not perfect to use neat for any conifers in climates like ours

cheers Marcus
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Post  Guest Tue May 19, 2015 7:10 pm

I've been spooling around in the archives here as time allows. This is a dandy!! *bump*

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